Yesterday, I went to the Burberry show in Kensington Gardens. It was in a tent with a clear roof and open sides, and it was an extremely perfect summer afternoon — all puffy white clouds, bright-blue skies, and Pimm's cups served on a slightly overgrown lawn. I don't go to loads of men's fashion shows, so when I do, I inevitably wind up spending some amount of time assessing the ways in which they are different from women's shows.
There are the immediately obvious ways: They are much smaller, slightly less frantic; there are fewer celebrities; and there is less anticipation of what's to come. Men's fashion, after all, is a study in either nuance or theater; men just don't dress with the same level of variety or drama as women, so watching a men's show becomes either about studying a hem or a cuff or a fabric or sitting back to enjoy a spectacle of styling and mood setting that bears little relationship to actual clothes.
The men at Burberry yesterday didn't look clownish or absurd in their often-monochromatic layers of flat-fronted trousers and trench coats (one of my big men's shows fears). They looked really good, and the clothes looked well made and correct, and it was easy to unpack them from their styling and imagine them on a huge range of people living a huge range of lives. And so: success!
Walking out into the bright afternoon, enjoying the reasonableness of the crowd, it struck me that the biggest difference is the anxiety level in the room, so much of which comes from the audience. The men don't seem as stressed, and don't radiate the same sense of judgment or self-flagellation as their female counterparts. There's just as much grooming, with no absence of preening, expensive accessories, or well-buffed nails, but there is a mellower vibe — looking at men will just never carry the same kind of freight, even when the runway's the same.
Most Viewed Stories
It’s Harder to Be Thin Than It Was in the ’80s
Why Do I Jerk Awake Right As I’m Falling Asleep?
From Up Close, Raf Simons’s Vision for Dior Is Clear
The World’s Easiest Way to Highlight Your Face
A Pregnant Supermodel Explains What She Eats
Meet the Prom Queen of Instagram
Michelle Obama: No Boy Is Cute Enough to Keep You From Getting an Education
Sleater-Kinney on Riot Grrl, Reuniting, and Portlandia
Selfie Sorority Uses Media Frenzy for Good Cause
Guess Who Renovated This Grand Upper West Side Penthouse
From Our Partners
J.Crew Is Shifting Away From a High Fashion Image, Focusing Instead on Its Heritage
The Day I Told The Ugly Truth About My Marriage
Warning: You're About to Be Totally Obsessed With This Tiny, Stylish Dog
5 Eyeliner Rules Most Women Break (and How to Redeem Yourself)
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesThe Retired Modeling Agent Who Loves Empire
“I started my own agency — we represented Twiggy — but went off to be assistant to the actor Yul Brynner, who was dating my roommate at the time.”Bright Coats for Cold Days
New York women in winter's least-boring outerwear, from bright-green alpaca fur to leopard-print mohair.Céline’s Woman-Friendly Triumph
Phoebe Philo remains in touch with what women want to wear.Watch the Akris Livestream
Enjoy!From Up Close, Raf Simons’s Vision for Dior Is Clear
And don't count John Galliano out at Margiela yet.5 Things I Want to Wear From Paris: Part 2
Cropped sweaters, a spangled skirt, and more.Jaden Smith and Kesha Partied This Week
Along with Cindy Crawford, Anjelica Huston, Rita Ora, and Lena Dunham.Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid Partied in Balmain
Plus: more highlights from Paris Fashion Week's parties, including Jared Leto.See All the Street Style From Paris Fashion Week
Featuring wooden platforms, velvet robes, and floor-length ponchos.Who Won Best-Dressed at Milan Fashion Week?
Another city, another people's choice Peacock.
Photographer Tomasz Lazar's latest dispatch from Fashion Month.Style Smackdown: Olivia Pope vs. Cookie Lyon
Judging the best looks from this week's episodes.Never Mind the Feminist Sound-Bites, Rick Owens Just Showed His Best Clothes Yet
Gymnast models symbolizing "women supporting women" wore mature yet spontaneous looks.Grace Jones Is Having the Wildest Book Tour Ever [NSFW]
She flashed crowds at her signing in New York.Tom Ford and Lady Gaga Turn the Runway Into a Disco
The designer is showing his newest collection in a video.All About Dior’s Spring 2016 Show
Rihanna, lavender walls, and pointy flats.Cecilia Dean on Her Latest Immersive Fashion Project
A downtown art event with DVF and Proenza Schouler.Dior Built a Huge Flower Wall for Its Show
Just breathe that in.The Selfie-Stick Fashion Generation
Today’s young designers focus too often on their feelings.Rick Owens Dressed Models in ... Other Models
Harnesses were involved.