Phillip Lim’s starting point for his spring collection was sleep. His color palette was full of off-whites and tans, inspired, he said, by ever so slightly mismatched sheets. “At the end of the day, you put together the bed and it’s just ivories and whites and ecrus,” the designer said backstage. “I could either fuss over it, or I could just kind of enjoy nap time.” It’s tough to evoke bedtime without actually putting the audience to sleep, but Lim managed. His delicately curved, piped, and embroidered creations had enough surface interest to give everyone present an afternoon jolt.
Another show with a wonderfully dreamy quality to it was Thom Browne. The set was pure Insta-bait, with models lounging living-statue-style in a mock garden. Browne always has fun with preppy codes, and these clothes played on lawn games: badminton birdies embroidered onto jackets, a racket worn as a fascinator. (Stephen Jones’s millinery was as much the star of the show as Browne’s designs; you get the sense that the two were one-upping each other in outrageousness.) As models came out in 3-D takes on the natural world — a jacket whose wisps of feather evoked insect legs and trembled with every step, sweaters with oversize flower appliqués — a charming children’s story, written by Browne and narrated by his friend and fan Diane Keaton, played as the soundtrack. Post-show, the designer shrugged off specific references — Alice in Wonderland, fairy tales, psychedelia — instead, he said, he intended to keep it simple.“The collection was about very simple shapes, but really amazingly intricate shapes and materials and work and workmanship,” he said. And luckily, the presentation’s format allowed onlookers to catch every last glimpse of Browne’s old-school worksmanship, as though it were under a microscope.
Rosie Assoulin’s color-saturated cream-puff gowns are what we’re all wearing in our dreams, but her beautifully low-key presentation today was down-to-earth. Her minimalist accessories — a Grecian urn-shaped bag and straw picture hat — had all of us wanting to wake up in spring 2015 already.
Most Viewed Stories
The Sheer Perfection of Donald Trump’s Golden Shower
Connecticut Politician Arrested for Pinching Woman’s Genitals
The Ultimate Guide to Preparing for the Women’s March
15 Protest Sign Ideas for the Women’s March on Washington
The Divorced Mom Who Cries After Sex
Pakistani Pop Star Stops Concert When He Spots Sexual Harassment
What Romance Really Means After 10 Years of Marriage
Madame Clairevoyant: Horoscopes for the Week of January 16
I’m Anti-Trump, But I Refuse to March
From Our Partners
powered by PubExchange
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.