Read All of Cathy Horyn’s Fashion Month Reviews in One Place

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Cathy Horyn. Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com/BFA NYC

This fashion month marked Cathy Horyn’s first season as the Cut’s critic-at-large, and she spent it delivering her signature discerning commentary on the industry’s biggest names and most-promising talents. Here’s the full list of all of her reviews from New York and Paris — including musings on the way that social media is changing the industry, the staleness of celebrity front-row saturation, and plenty of new designers to keep an eye on. 

On Nicolas Ghesquière’s exhilarating, innovative designs at Louis Vuitton and Sarah Burton’s successful embrace of intimacy (and move away from masks) at Alexander McQueen.

On Karl Lagerfeld’s brasserie blockbuster at Chanel, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s “too-tasteful” debut for Hermès, and the unexciting vintage inspirations behind Giambattista Valli and Givenchy.

On Rei Kawakubo’s powerful bereavement-themed Comme des Garçons sculptures and Junya Watanabe’s stunning economy of design.

On Phoebe Philo’s hard-core questioning of glamour and authenticity for Céline and Jonathan Anderson’s inventive overhaul of Loewe.

• On John Galliano’s failed modernist mash-up at Margiela, Alexander Wang’s parody of couture glamour for Balenciaga, and Raf Simons’s sublime, simple silhouettes for Dior.   

On the stale celebrity scene at Balmain, Dries Van Noten’s modern, funny, grasp on elegance, and Rick Owens’s rough-and-ready drapery.

• On the rise of mobile fashion — and why it’s making the industry flatter.

On Tom Ford’s all-American L.A. ambush.

On Ralph Lauren’s dated consistency, Marc Jacobs’s rebellion against streetwear, and Francisco Costa’s commendable use of textures for Calvin Klein.   

On Proenza Schouler’s freeing approach to tailoring, Michael Kors’s reinvention of Wasp-y classics, and Sophie Theallet’s sensational work with gold lace.  

On finding Rodarte both “awfully bad and awfully good,” Peter Copping’s promising debut for Oscar de la Renta, and the lack of cool at J.Crew.

On Thom Browne’s trip to a Mafia funeral, Eckhaus Latta’s commentary on the sadness of being young in New York, and the resurgence of Zoran-like styles at The Row and the Brock Collection.   

On Public School designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne and their honest approach to advancing style, Prabal Gurung’s sharp, spare dresses, and Thakoon’s abundance of fresh ideas.

• On Alexander Wang’s masterful commentary on the constraints of branding and Ryan Roche’s minimalist — yet decadent — knitwear.  

• On Kanye West’s flawed NYFW debut, Adam Selman’s West Side Story remake, and Gabriela Hearst’s well-thought-out “luxury without the froufrou.”

• On the thrill of returning to Fashion Week after time away — and how fashion is like “one big vagina.”