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New Designers & Photographers Honored at Hyères

Top honors go to fashion designers Annelie Schubert and Anna Bornhold, as well as photographer Sjoerd Knibbeler.

The Hyères Festival in the South of France wrapped up this weekend — with ten talented young photographers and ten designers competing for the grand prize in each respective category. (The prize money totals 15,000 euros, along with — for the fashion winner — an opportunity to collaborate with Chanel’s Métiers d’Art group.)

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  • Yesterday at 6:00 PM
  • Lies

The Most Iconic Studio 54 Photo Is a Big Lie

Bianca Jagger and the horse she did not ride in on.

There are certain stories we've been told that we just need to be true. We take comfort in their solid truthiness and accept them as fact. One such tale: In 1977,  Bianca Jagger rode a majestic white horse into her 30th birthday at Studio 54 and it was glamorous. We know this to be true because there is a photo of Jagger, looking fierce, astride said horse, inside said club. 

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  • Yesterday at 5:30 PM

The Illustrator Who Dreams Up Fanciful Sneaker Collaborations

Balenciaga x Jeff Koons, Nike x Jurassic Park, and more.

There's a new theme every day on It's Vintage. Read more articles on today's topic: Sneakerheads.

On the heels of Crepe City, London's massive sneakerhead-fest, Lyst enlisted Polish illustrator Olka Osadzińska — known for her cultish sneaker drawings and the three signature shoe designs she has done with Reebok — to bring to life some hypothetical sneaker collaborations we'd like to see turned into reality. In her mind, Jeff Koons "collaborates" with Balenciaga on mirror-ball-accented sneakers, while New Balance and Lego strike a colorful balance.

"I've always loved sneakers. They're a wearable symbol of pop culture," Osadzińska told the Cut. "Andy Warhol wore Reeboks, every classic '80s and '90s film has its sneaker moment, it's hard to imagine the street-art or the hip-hop scenes without them. And this is where I come from visually, as someone growing up in a golden era of the most inspiring advertising for pop-culture brands." Here, she explains the thought process behind some of her designs.

"I was more of a Lego kid than a Barbie kid." »
  • Yesterday at 5:10 PM
  • Q&a

How a Serial Killer Got Away With It

By preying on poor black women, according to Nick Broomfield's new documentary.

How did one of America's most prolific serial killers get away with it for so many years? That’s the question acclaimed British documentarian Nick Broomfield sought to address after learning about the Grim Sleeper, who operated in South Central L.A. from the '80s through 2010, when a man named Lonnie Franklin Jr. was arrested in connection with ten murders. When police raided his apartment, they found thousands of photos of naked women, conscious and unconscious, and now believe he may have killed dozens more.

When the Grim Sleeper started killing women, crime and crack were rampant in South Central L.A. Many believe the lack of police investigation and media coverage has to do with the fact that the Grim Sleeper — so named because he appeared to take a 13-year break that is now in dispute — killed poor, black women, most of them drug addicts or sex workers. “I'm a black woman, who gives a fuck about me,” says Pam Brooks, a community member and former sex worker who helped the filmmakers find their sources.

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7 Ways to Prep Your Skin for Spring

Face sweat: just around the corner. 

Winter might mean dry, flaky skin — but in a few short months, it'll be about keeping your skin from being a gross, sweaty mess. To guide us through the warm-weather transition, the Cut spoke to aestheticians Sonya Dakar and Kate Somerville, dermatologist and Yale University School of Medicine associate professor Dr. Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas, and French editorial makeup artist Violette about how to transition skin from winter to summer without looking terrible. Read their tips, below. 

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  • Yesterday at 3:30 PM

Inside the World of Extreme Sneaker Collectors

Talking to the director behind the new documentary, Sneakerheadz, about the obsessives who view sneakers as art.

There's a new theme every day on It's Vintage. Read more articles on today's topic: Sneakerheads.

By his count, producer and director David Friendly has 85 pairs of sneakers in his closet. He doesn’t find that number extreme. “I’m not even on the spectrum!” he says. “I’m just at the tip of the iceberg.” His new documentary, Sneakerheadz — set to hit theaters in New York and L.A. this August — profiles far more avid collectors. The film, which marks his directorial debut (he’s best known as the producer behind Little Miss Sunshine), dives deep into the world of extreme sneaker collectors — die-hard junkies with anywhere from 200 to 5,000 boxes of kicks in their closets. It’s a fascinating look inside an insular subculture, and a nuanced exploration of the relationship between masculinity and fashion. The Cut spoke with Friendly about the evolution of sneaker hype and the motivations behind sneaker collectors.

"In their defense, I think these people look at sneakers as art." »

A Creamy Cleanser That Kills Body Acne

Bye-bye, buttne.

Body acne is the Cersei Lannister of skin maladies, in that it shows up as it pleases, stays around for far too long, and is fundamentally evil. When I noticed a few small bumps around my upper back a month ago, I reached for an exfoliating body cleanser, which, according to experts, is the best bet for fighting body blemishes. The search led me to Glytone's Exfoliating Body Wash, a particularly potent acidic cleanser lauded for its ability to fade dark marks, smooth skin, and, yes, kill body acne.

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Nicki Minaj Hits the Bar Mitzvah Circuit

And offers advice to the youth!

A 13-year-old New York kid named Matt made bar mitzvah history last night, surprising his tween-age friends by bringing none other than Nicki Minaj onstage for the festivities. Nicki posed for photos along Matt's very own step-and-repeat, sang hits including "Super Bass" and "Only," and imparted wise words to the teen guests. "Stay in school and don't be a slouch or a bum ... And ladies, never let a man have to take care of you, do you understand me? Be your own woman, be your own person." Mazel Tov, Matt. You're the man, now.

  • Yesterday at 1:30 PM

Great Moments in Sneaker History

From humble tennis shoes to Yeezy Boosts.

There's a new theme every day on It's Vintage. Read more articles on today's topic: Sneakerheads.

Much like jeans, army jackets, and trench coats, sneakers started out occupying a very specific sartorial window and have since become part of common currency. Once reserved for tennis, croquet, and basketball, they're now seen on couture runways, in boardrooms, and — thanks to Wendy Davis— even on the floor of the Texas State Senate. (When filibustering, arch support is key to endurance.)

Stan Smiths, Jordans, and more styles that have stood the test of time. »

Mad Men Fashion Recap: Moving On Up?

The Sterling Cooper crew stares down the barrel of a big change.

We already know that Mad Men’s characters don’t deal particularly well with change, and there was plenty of upheaval in last night’s episode, as the agency found out they were moving out of the Time-Life Building, under the aegis of McCann Erickson. Both the office old-timers and the newbies, like Don’s chirpy secretary, Meredith, seemed to have trouble grappling with the decision. And a plot to relocate the office to L.A. quickly fizzles.

The more things change, the more the characters' wardrobes remain static. »

Alber Elbaz on the Apple Watch and the Role of Creativity in a High-Tech World

"We buy with our heads, but most of the time we buy with our hearts. We need more beauty. We need more emotion."

The ever-charming Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz spoke at the Condé Nast Luxury Conference in Florence last week. Titled "Can Computers Ever Replace the Creative Mind of a Fashion Designer?" his speech veered from hilarious, self-deprecating anecdotes, to thoughtful insights into how luxury fashion can continue to be relevant in a high-tech world. If he ever gets tired of designing dresses, he could have a glittering career as an after-dinner speaker. Read the highlights below.

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Science Shows Humblebragging Doesn’t Even Work

You're better off sticking to old-fashioned regular-bragging, without the false humility.

Humblebragging is irritating; this, you know. But the truth about that special, noxious blend of whining and boasting is that it also doesn’t even appear to work the way that humblebraggarts think it does, in that it doesn’t successfully get the intended message across, according to a new working paper from a team of Harvard Business School researchers. Sometimes, you’re better off just regular-bragging.

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  • Yesterday at 11:30 AM

Inside the Sneaker Exhibition That’s Coming to the Brooklyn Museum

Talking to the curator behind North America's first big sneaker museum tour.

There's a new theme every day on It's Vintage. Read more articles on today's topic: Sneakerheads.

As a curator at the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, Elizabeth Semmelhack often encounters the assumption that women make up the majority of shoe obsessives. It’s not true: She says the museum’s collections are evenly balanced with men’s and women’s footwear designs — but that notion is part of what inspired her to curate the first museum exhibition in North America to focus exclusively on sneakers. The show, “Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture,” which is composed nearly entirely of men’s shoes, first opened at the Bata Shoe Museum last winter, and begins its four-city U.S. tour this July at the Brooklyn Museum.

“I find it interesting that men have been willing to put styles and colors on their feet that they would reject in other outfits." »

John Oliver Will Make You Rethink That $25 Dress

“Deniability seems to have been stitched into the supply chain.”

Over the weekend, Last Week Tonight With John Oliver reminded us of the actual moral costs of cheap clothing in a segment called “Fashion.” The well-researched, 20-minute bit is a takedown of the fast-fashion dependence that's led to a cycle of “reckless behavior” and allowed clothing brands to avoid accountability. 

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How a Designer Balances Two Labels Simultaneously

Jonathan Anderson on how he juggles J.W. Anderson and Loewe.

At last week’s Condé Nast Conference in Florence, Jonathan Anderson sat down in front of an audience of luxury fashion CEOs, marketing executives, and company directors. During an onstage interview with Suzy Menkes, he explained how he balances his own successful brand, J.W. Anderson — part-owned by LVMH — with his role as creative director of Loewe.

Menkes wanted to know how collections for two different fashion brands could be managed by one imagination, and the solution seems to be all about streamlining. “When I first started at Loewe I wanted [the two labels] to be different — I wanted them to be bipolar in that way,” explained Anderson. “And then I realized it would be better to take people on the journey with me throughout the season, because it would be kind of ridiculous to pose one thing and then say, ‘Actually no, a week later I don’t believe in that anymore.’ So for me, it was just trying to find who the Loewe man and women were, and to redefine the J.W. Anderson man and woman, so that they could co-exist inside my head.”

"When I joined Loewe, my biggest issue was that they used the words ‘Madrid 1846,' and I felt it was too literally descriptive." »

Copyright © 2015, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved. The Cut® are registered trademarks of New York Media LLC.

Copyright © 2015, New York Media LLC.
All Rights Reserved.

Copyright © 2015, New York Media LLC. All Rights Reserved.