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Rome for Beer

New York to Rome = 9 hours

To order a beer in wine-­obsessed ­Italy ten years ago was to choose ­between Peroni and Moretti. But thanks to an influx of birre artigianali, the city is now flush with spaces catering to suds chasers. Kick off an informal survey at Freni e Frizioni (Via del Politeama 4/6; 3906-4549-7499), where locals line up for the bountiful spread of aperitivi. Then head to divey soccer bar Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà’ (Via Benedetta 25; 3906-9727-5218) in the cobblestoned Trastevere neighborhood; the name translates as “What the Hell Are You Doing Here?,” an answer you’ll know immediately upon scanning the exhaustive drink menu. At nearby Bir & Fud (Via Benedetta 23; 3906-589-4016), helpful servers will guide you to the pizza that best matches each brew. In June, some of the impresarios behind Birreria in New York will unveil a ten-tap brewpub in Rome’s new Eataly complex (Piazzale 12 Ottobre 1492; no phone yet); till then, choose from roughly 100 Italian beers, including 43 on tap, at the much-ballyhooed Open Baladin (Via Degli Specchi 6; 3906-683-8989). Sleep off the inevitable hangover at Gigli D’Oro (from $340; Via dei Gigli d’Oro 12; giglidorosuite.com), located in a fifteenth-century palazzo in the old city center, and, if you’re feeling generous, pick up a bottle or two of Birra del Borgo ales at Johnny’s Off-License (Via Veio 4; 3906-7725-0130)—you know, for your less ­fortunate friends at home.


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