New York to Rome = 9 hours
To order a beer in wine-obsessed Italy ten years ago was to choose between Peroni and Moretti. But thanks to an influx of birre artigianali, the city is now flush with spaces catering to suds chasers. Kick off an informal survey at Freni e Frizioni (Via del Politeama 4/6; 3906-4549-7499), where locals line up for the bountiful spread of aperitivi. Then head to divey soccer bar Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà’ (Via Benedetta 25; 3906-9727-5218) in the cobblestoned Trastevere neighborhood; the name translates as “What the Hell Are You Doing Here?,” an answer you’ll know immediately upon scanning the exhaustive drink menu. At nearby Bir & Fud (Via Benedetta 23; 3906-589-4016), helpful servers will guide you to the pizza that best matches each brew. In June, some of the impresarios behind Birreria in New York will unveil a ten-tap brewpub in Rome’s new Eataly complex (Piazzale 12 Ottobre 1492; no phone yet); till then, choose from roughly 100 Italian beers, including 43 on tap, at the much-ballyhooed Open Baladin (Via Degli Specchi 6; 3906-683-8989). Sleep off the inevitable hangover at Gigli D’Oro (from $340; Via dei Gigli d’Oro 12; giglidorosuite.com), located in a fifteenth-century palazzo in the old city center, and, if you’re feeling generous, pick up a bottle or two of Birra del Borgo ales at Johnny’s Off-License (Via Veio 4; 3906-7725-0130)—you know, for your less fortunate friends at home.