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The Urbanist’s Lisbon: What to Do

Fado Finder
The Portuguese take their fado—folk music marked by soulful vocals and guitar—seriously. Fado singer Cuca Roseta offers a musical tour through Alfama, a maze of narrow alleys and hidden concert halls.


Clube de Fado  

“Go to the Museu do Fado (Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1; 218-823-470) to learn about its history. Come on weekends around 6:30 p.m. for a visita cantada, a guided tour that culminates with a live concert.”

“Pay respects to fado icon Amália Rodrigues at Panteão Nacional (Campo de Santa Clara), the church where her body rests. Look for it in Sala Tumular, located to the right of the church.”

“Set out for a night crawl around 7:30 p.m. with the fado hobbyists at A Baiuca (Rua de São Miguel 20; 218-867-284), a minuscule spot where you can start the evening off with a glass of wine.”

“Next up is Clube de Fado (Rua São João da Praça 86-94; 218-852-704; reservations suggested), five minutes away. This is where the pros perform. I sing there, too; it’s like my other home.”

“Ten minutes from Clube de Fado is the intimate Mesa de Frades (Rua dos Remédios 139A; 917-029-436). This is where all the fado singers go after work—around 1 a.m.—to have a nightcap.”


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