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The Urbanist’s Lisbon: Where to Eat

Cod and Custard
Supposedly, there are over a thousand ways to cook codfish, the go-to Portuguese protein. Other staples include porco preto, or black pork, and pastel de nata pastries. José Avillez, the star chef behind Belcanto, reveals spots for traditional and modern takes on each.



Cod

Golden Oldie:
“Book a table at O Poleiro (Rua de Entrecampos 30 A; 217-976-265), a tiny but very good restaurant in Entrecampos, and order the Gomes de Sá–style bacalhau, which combines cod, potato, onion, boiled egg, and olives.”

Newfangled Favorite:
“Chef Vítor Sobral, one of the pioneers of contemporary Portuguese cuisine, heads up Tasca da Esquina (Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C; 210-993-939) in Campo de Ourique. Try the flaked cod, a wonderful dish made with creamy baked onion, fried egg, finely cut potato chips, and parsley.”



Black Pork

Golden Oldie:
“Order the grilled Iberian pork pluma at Salsa & Coentros (Rua Coronel Marques Leitão 12; 218-410-990) in Bairro de Alvalade. The pluma is located on the shoulder of the loin, giving it a generous marbling of fat that leads to flavorful tenderness. The acorn-fed pork is simply grilled, with just salt and pepper for seasoning.”

Newfangled Favorite:
“At Fortaleza do Guincho (Estrada do Guincho; 214-870-491) in Cascais, a 40-minute train ride from Lisbon, roasted black pork from Alentejo comes with migas, or bread crumbs, cabbage purée, and an Espelette-pepper sauce. Suspended over the Atlantic in a former fort, the restaurant has a view of Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in continental Europe.”



Pastel de Nata

Golden Oldie:
“Grab one of the signature custard pastries at Pastéis de Belém (Rua de Belém 84-92; 213-637-423) in the waterfront district. They date back to 1837, and they’re still handcrafted in a secret room based on an ancient recipe. Eat them warm, topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon.”

Newfangled Favorite:
“At the upscale Feitoria Restaurante & Wine Bar (Doca do Bom Sucesso; 210-400-200), inside Altis Belém Hotel & Spa, this traditional dessert comes deconstructed as a phyllo roll filled with a pastel de nata cream and served with cinnamon ice cream, lime meringue, and lemon jelly.”


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