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Venice,
Italy
New restaurants (and old favorites) in Italy
From the April 22, 2002 Issue of New York
 Head
for the boutiquey Hotel Colombina, just steps from Piazza San Marco,
and stash your bags quickly in order to reach Rialto market at full
morning simmer. Refuel standing up on little sandwiches at Do Mori
or punctuate your amble toward the Church of the Frari and the wall-to-wall
Tintorettos at the Scuola di San Rocco with just-fried sea creatures
at Vivaldi. After lunch, get a feel for the life of bridges and watery
divides on the No. 1 vaporetto (buy a three-day pass). Even if it's
a tourist cliché, you must linger over hot chocolate and a dolce at
café Quadri or its rival Florian, both in the Piazza San Marco, then
get lost in the shopping maze of the Mercerie. I like Neapolitan pastas
at Acqua Pazza, the curious antics and old-fashioned cucina at Dalla
Marisa near Tre Archi bridge, and the antipasti del mare and spaghetti
with sardines under the Warhol prints at Ostaria da Rioba. One evening,
you want to be sipping aperitifs outdoors at Cip's on the Guidecca,
watching the sunset paint Venice Fauvist oranges and purples, savoring
the ethereal mystery.
-- GAEL GREENE
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Details
Do Mori (39-041-522-5401); Vivaldi (39-041-523-8185); Acqua
Pazza (39-041-277-0688); Dalla Marisa (39-041-720-211); Ostaria
da Rioba (39-041-524-4379); Cip's (39-041-520-7744); Hotel Colombina
(doubles start at $280; 39-041-277-0525). Delta's nonstop service
from JFK is a must for a long weekend (800-241-4141).
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| Photograph: P. Verbeeck |
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