the best . . .
PICKING UP A ROMAN
Piazza delle Coppelle
Two blocks behind the Pantheon, the tiny Piazza Delle Coppelle has three great bars and narrow streets with ivy overhangs—and, at any given moment between 9 p.m. and 3 a.m., an inordinate amount of Italian hotties checking each other out. It’s what Campo de’ Fiori was years ago, before guidebook overexposure ruined it.
AN H&H BAGEL
Checco er Charttiere
Via Benedetta, 10–13; (39-06-581-7018)
Order a freshly baked cornetto (Italian croissant) with a caffé (which is really espresso); eat your meal standing at the counter alongside grumpy commuters and feel right at home.
REASON TO LEAVE
Via Antonio Bosio, 20a; (39-06-442-02701)
After a few days of cacio this and pepe that, you may well crave some non-Roman fare. At Sud, in the well-appointed Trieste neighborhood, the menu stems from Sicily and Calabria, the room is small and modern, and the clientele is entirely local.
PLACE TO BECOME
St. Peter in Chains
Piazza San Pietro in Vincoli
Built in 431 to honor the chains that bound Peter the Apostle, this is a house of worship we can get with. The main attraction—the chains under glass—impresses even ardent nonbelievers. It’s also home to Michelangelo’s Moses, which is, by any standard, divine.
Next: A Guide to Rome's Restaurant Scene