Mappa No. 5: San Lorenzo
Buon Giorno, Hipsters
Rome’s next cool neighborhood is here.
Just past the Aurelian Wall on the eastern edge of Rome is San Lorenzo, a neighborhood that’s been deemed the next cool area—for about a decade. (Things take time here.) But now it seems the up-and-coming is finally up and here. The neighborhood borders one of the largest universities in Europe, and houses struggling artists and students, plus a handful of Italian B-list celebrities, attracted to the gritty glam. With its narrow streets and dearth of landmarks, San Lorenzo can take a few tries to find, but it’s worth the effort for the Williamsburgian mix of cafés, bookstores, and cheap, funky restaurants. You’ll know you’re there when jeans ride lower on the hips, sunglasses become more reflective, and the median age drops twenty years.
Piazza dei Sanniti, 44
At lunch, you’ll be surrounded by old Italian men who look like they walked off the Godfather set; order what they’re having—bistecca and vino rosso della casa.
2. Uno e Bino
Via degli Equi, 58
Imagine Craft, just a little cheaper, and more Italian. Try the ricotta- and-spinach-filled phyllos, or the tagliatelle tossed with sea bass.
3. Enoteca Ferrazza
Via dei Volsci, 59
Its central location and remarkably flattering lighting make Enoteca Ferrazza the favored destination of San Lorenzo’s beautiful people.
4. Rive Gauche 2
Via dei Sabelli, 43
It’s the closest thing to a Roman beer hall—tightly packed tables, loud music, and a variety of ales served in foot-tall glasses.
Via dei Volsci, 103–107
We like this sophisticated spot for its candlelight, delicious antipasti, and selection of 350 wines. Okay, maybe we like the light jazz, too.
6. Claudio Sano
Largo degli Osci, 67a
Watch as Claudio cuts and sews funky handbags in the shape of lips, or stiff leather briefcases with giant keyhole cutouts.
7. L’anatra all’Arancia
Via Tiburtina, 103–109
The newest shop for style-conscious locals is well stocked with Camper shoes and Paul Smith clothes.
8. Enoteca Bottega 74
Via degli Umbri, 25
The best cheap wine in town: Buy an empty bottle for 1 euro and have them fill it from one of their steel vats for another 1.90 euros.
9. Arancia Blu
Via dei Latini, 55–65
At this vegetarian eatery, the food is so good, the room so intimate, and the walls so amply stacked with wine, you don’t even notice the lack of bistecca on the menu.
10. Giufà Libreria Caffé
Via degli Aurunci, 38
No self-respecting college town can be without a socialist-leaning bookshop. Giufà specializes in foreign fiction, art and cinema books, and, of course, Che Guevara.
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