Le Bernardin.   (Photo: Courtesyf of Le Bernardin)

Jean Georges
1 Central Park W., nr. 60th St.; 212-299-3900
Nothing and no one steals center stage from the astonishing creations of this extraordinary French chef.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Four Seasons Hotel, 57 E. 57th St., nr. Park Ave.; 212-350-6658
This is haute French cuisine of the most extreme, stylized kind.

Le Bernardin
155 W. 51st St., nr. Seventh Ave.; 212-554-1515
Experience the thrilling sensation of having everything that surrounds you be perfect. Then order fish.

Per Se
Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, at 60th St., fourth fl.; 212-823-9335
A lavishly equipped kitchen lured the always brilliant Thomas Keller out of his bucolic Napa Valley existence.

Masa
Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, at 60th St., fourth fl.; 212-823-9800
Masa Takayama indoctrinates New Yorkers into the esoteric realm of $400-plus sushi dinners.

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