Le Bernardin.   (Photo: Courtesyf of Le Bernardin)

Jean Georges
1 Central Park W., nr. 60th St.; 212-299-3900.
Nothing and no one steals center stage from the astonishing creations of this extraordinary French chef.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Four Seasons Hotel, 57 E. 57th St., nr. Park Ave.; 212-350-6658.
This is haute French cuisine of the most extreme, stylized kind.

Le Bernardin
155 W. 51st St., nr. Seventh Ave.; 212-554-151.
Experience the thrilling sensation of having everything that surrounds you perfect. Then order fish.

Per Se
Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, at 60th St., fourth fl.; 212-823-9335.
A lavishly equipped kitchen lured the always brilliant Thomas Keller out of his bucolic Napa Valley existence.

Masa
Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, at 60th St., fourth fl.; 212-823-9335.
Masa Takayama indoctrinates New Yorkers into the esoteric realm of $400-plus sushi dinners.

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