Pok Pok Ny.   (Photo: Jonathan Nesteruk)

Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare
200 Schermerhorn St., nr. Hoyt St., Boerum Hill; 718-243-0050
In-the-know diners flock to César Ramirez's $135 tasting dinners served in a glorified bodega.

Empellón Taqueria
230 W. 4th St., nr. W. 10th St.; 212-367-0999
Alex Stupak does for the lowly taco what he did for cutting-edge desserts at wd~50.

Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry St., nr. Prince St.; 212-965-0955
In the realm of red-sauce cooking, Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi's intimate eatery is nothing short of revolutionary.

Pok Pok Ny
127 Columbia St., at Kane St., Red Hook; 718-923-9322
Andy Ricker's full sit-down northern Thai restaurant, Pok Pok Ny, seems poised to rock the city's Thai-food scene.

Tertulia
359 Sixth Ave., New York, NY 10012 nr. Washington Pl.; 646-559-9909
Seamus Mullen’s snug, beautifully realized Spanish taverna in the West Village.