Given that Bermuda is still a small chunk of the British Empire, it makes sense that much of the cuisine is similar to that found in London—that is, before the city’s culinary revolution. You won’t find a ton of indigenous fare, but the island’s many pubs often serve seafood specialties, including conch salad, turtle steaks, shark fillets, mussel pie, and cod six ways to Sunday (boiled with eggs; sautéed with peppers, onion, and garlic; and chilled in a cold casserole). For many visitors, the highlight of local gastronomy is the Dark and Stormy, a cocktail made from Bermudan dark rum and ginger beer.
The truest local color will be found at the Spot (6 Burnaby St.; 441-292-6293), a breakfast-and-lunch-only diner near the bus terminal in Hamilton, where the traditional workingman’s breakfast, cod and potatoes, is served until eleven each day. For lunch there are the requisite burgers and sandwiches—all tasty in a greasy-spoon way.
At Dennis’s Hideaway (Cashew City Rd., St. David’s Island; 441-297-0444), an ultracasual hole-in-the-wall outfitted with rustic “recycled” furniture, local character Dennis Lamb focuses on seafood like shark hash and conch chowder. Call first to see whether Lamb is in the mood to open for the night.
For an upscale night out, try Fourways Inn (1 Middle Rd.; 441-236-6517), which has been filling island stomachs for a whopping 250 years. Its French cuisine is updated seasonally with local shellfish and herbs and vegetables from the on-site gardens.
For a nightcap and some live jazz, visit the Veranda Bar at Elbow Beach, where Bermuda’s only rum bar—with more than 50 varieties of the spirit, including the island’s own Gosling’s Dark—adds some Caribbean color to a classic cigar den.