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The Five-Point Weekend Escape Plan

Feast on Nordic Cuisine in Copenhagen

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5. Oddball Day


A thousand residents live in Christiania, a self-governing town near the eastern side of the Christianshavn canals.  

Cycle through the “Free Town” of Christiania, a tax-free, rent-free hippie commune on an 85-acre abandoned military barracks. Pick up a free city bike at Christianshavn Torv near the metro, the closest of 110 bicycle-parking locations. Before departing, pick up the dark rye bread called rugbrød ($6) at Lagkagehuset, the best bakery in Copenhagen, according to a poll by Danish daily Politiken. Enter on Prinsessegade Street to view the vivid painted murals of Mariana Rydvald. Pedal along the town’s car-free streets, passing artist workshops and market stands selling bracelets, Buddha statues, and bongs. (Hashish is sold for around $7 a joint in this self-governed enclave, especially along Pusher Street.) Stop into Både-og on the ground floor of the opera building, where the bearded owner creates hand-carved pine and birch bowls. Then have your feet measured at Tata Sko, where shoemakers craft bespoke footwear in less than 70 hours (from $230). Find a spot in the pebbled garden at Morgenstedet house for a simply prepared vegetarian lunch. The chalkboard menu is vague (“hot meal and salad,” $14) so ask for the day’s specials. Then climb the stairs to the Loppen rock club at 9 p.m., when indie acts like Rhode Island’s the Low Anthem take the stage, followed by D.J.'s ($12 to $33). Pedal back down Prinsessegade to get to the metro; you’ll know you’ve left Christiania when you pass the sign that reads, “You are now entering the E.U.”


Published on Jun 24, 2010 as a web exclusive.

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