The island’s best restaurant is Juanita Bananas (make a reservation), a $4 público (taxi) ride from Flamenco Beach near the snorkeling hot spot of Melones Beach. Watch the sunset from the deck with a margarita in hand. The limes are grown on-site, as are many herbs and vegetables on the menu.
Susie’s sits along the canal that cuts through Culebra’s sole town, Dewey. Fresh seafood dominates the menu, but it’s also a good spot to try the island’s specially spiced skirt steak, churrasco.
El Caobo (Calle Luís Muñoz Marín; 787-742-0505) is a tourist-free neighborhood joint behind the Ecological School in Clark. The lime-green vinyl tablecloths clash with the local fare: garlic chicken, red beans and rice, plátanos, and Argentinean sausage in wine sauce, each under $10.
Buy pinchos—meat kebabs of swordfish, chicken, and pork—and rice and beans from vendors at Flamenco Beach for about $4.