For lunch on Playa Bonita, avoid the “proper” beach shacks. Round Bonita’s first long curve and look for a couple of guys and a grill (they’re mobile, so you may have to walk a bit farther). Ask after the coolers’ contents (en español), order up, and then soak in the still, luminous water while your meal’s prepared. Around $35 (prepare to negotiate) can get you a whole grilled fish—probably chillo (red snapper) or mero (grouper)—a fresh lobster (if available), brown rice, baked potatoes, and some cold Presidentes. Plus a glorious tropical setting you’re likely to have to yourself.
4. Insider’s Tip
Published on Nov 20, 2008 as a web exclusive.