Stay out of the jungle for a day to explore Guyana’s English-speaking, East Indian–influenced capital of Georgetown. Start off at Oasis Café with freshly baked muffins ($1) and mango smoothies ($3) before embarking on a boozy tour ($15) at Demerara Distillers, which produces one of the world’s best rums, the 15-year-old El Dorado. After tasting a few reserve rums, wander over to Hack’s Halal (5 Commerce St., Lacytown; 592-226-1844) to soak up your buzz with a fine Indian lunch ($5) followed by Chinese mooncakes ($1). Next, stop into Stabroek Market a few doors down to explore the cast-iron building that dates back to the late 1700s and houses everything from pigs to pineapples. Nearby at the Square of the Revolution, check out the monument to Cuffy, the famous leader and hero of the 1763 rebellion against the Berbice sugar estate. Grab a taxi ($2) to Roy Geddes’s house (190 Roxanne Burnham Gardens, South Ruimveldt; 592-226-9844). Gold-chain-wearing Geddes is a Guyanese steel-pan legend and his informal home museum (free admission) remains the country’s greatest connection to the art form that once dominated the music scene here. He’ll give you a quick history lesson and even a short performance. Around sunset, head over to the seawall, the best spot to see the Atlantic. As night settles, stop by the New Thriving Chinese Restaurant (37 Main St., Georgetown; 592-225-0868) for West Indian–style Chinese fare like chow mein ($2.50) or cha chee kai (fried chicken in a ginger and garlic sauce; $5). Afterwards, don’t miss Georgetown’s vibrant nightlife, but skip the almost-lawless Sheriff’s Café (10 Sheriff St., Campbellville; no phone) and popular club Buddy’s (137 Sheriff St., Campbellville; 592-231-7260) for the more laid-back Sidewalk Café & Jazz Club (free admission) at 176 Middle St. for live jazz, Guyanese steel pan music, or films on most nights.
5. Oddball Day
Published on Dec 15, 2011 as a web exclusive.