• 1. Where to Stay
• 2. Where to Eat
• 3. What to Do
• 4. Insider’s Tip
• 5. An Oddball Day

From left, Economy Shoe Shop; the Old Triangle Irish Alehouse.   (Photo: Courtesy of Economy Shoe Shop and the Old Triangle)

The capital city of Nova Scotia (Latin for "New Scotland"), Halifax claims more pubs per capita than anywhere else in Canada. They're all squeezed into the city’s compact downtown, none more than a ten-minute walk from the other. Crawl through designated hot spots like Split Crow and Lower Deck, both clamoring with Celtic bands, locally brewed beers like Alexander Keith's India Pale Ale, and a fall crowd that's more local than tourist. The Old Triangle Irish Alehouse serves a hearty fish cake of smoked mackerel and salmon and has possibly the best Guinness pour this side of the Atlantic. (The cries of "Sociable!" you’re hearing are just Haligonian for "Cheers!")

For something more sophisticated, try the Economy Shoe Shop, a labyrinth of four connected theme bars (Shoe, Backstage, Diamond, and Belgium). Seven Winebar and Restaurant has a loungy look and usually a bevy of blondes in little black dresses at the bar. Stay up late enough and you’ll likely end up at the Pizza Corner (Blowers and Grafton Streets), where three fluorescent-lit joints offer greasy slices and kebabs for anyone who's still awake.

Published on Sep 12, 2007 as a web exclusive.