Book a coveted spot looking out at the Mediterranean and the Frioul Islands at L’Epuisette, a 55-year-old institution that remains a standout in the city’s emerging restaurant scene. Locals come here for the expert take on traditional bouillabaisse ($78), a two-course meal of an aromatic soup served with toasted baguette slices covered in a spicy rouille, followed by four or five types of fish. The kitchen also turns out contemporary dishes, such as John Dory fillets braised in vin au noix and served on a bed of locally sourced mushrooms and spinach ($59).
Dine above the Vieux-Port at Le Grain de Sel (39 rue de la Paix Marcel Paul; 33 4 91 54 47 30), a two-year-old seafood-focused spot that Le Fooding named the Best Bistro in France last year. The menu is small but accomplished; order the gnocchi sarde, cooked and served in a cast-iron cocotte with mixed seafood ($26). In the warmer months, skip the narrow dining room and request a table on the ten-seat patio.
Head to Michelin-starred Une Table, Au Sud for a selection of more than 400 wines and imaginative dishes that showcase exceptional Provençal produce. Originally made famous by chef Lionel Levy and his creative riffs on bouillabaisse, the restaurant is now presided over by his right-hand man Ludovic Turac, whose daily tasting menus ($63–$103) feature local catches like red mullet, sea bass, and blue lobster. For gentler prices, go for the three-course lunch menu ($38) offered Tuesdays through Fridays.