Taste Neapolitan pizza in its birthplace and get a great deal at Sorbillo, a treasured pizzeria since it opened in 1935. Head to its first and best location (Via dei Tribunali, 38) and dive into a hefty personal pizza margherita ($4.50) or a diavola with spicy salami ($6). If you don’t want to wait, come right at the 7 p.m. opening, a good couple of hours before the local crowds arrive.
Sink your teeth into the spongy seaweed fritters that come with your meal at local favorite Napoli Mia (Via Riviera di Chiaia 269/A; +39/081-552-2266). They’ve moved to a new location near the waterfront, a short walk from Castel dell’Ovo, but husband-and-wife team Corrado and Antonella still dish out Neapolitan fare with modern touches (think millefoglie of codfish, tomato confit, and Gaeta olives, $22). Build up an appetite and splurge on one of the tasting menus (four courses for $51 or 5 for $65, not including wine).
Discover why Neapolitan pastries are legendary at Attanasio, famous for its cinnamon-laced sfogliatelle ($1.50). Order at the cash register (remember: sfogliatella riccia is ridged, sfogliatella frolla isn’t), take your ticket, and wait till your number comes up for your order, served fresh out of the oven.