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Donald Link, the chef from Cochon.

Local celebrity chef and James Beard award winner John Besh opened his fourth restaurant, Lüke, in May 2007. Lüke’s own beer master brews three quaffs to pair with the pâté of Louisiana rabbit and duck livers; house-made sausages; and cassoulet.

Hurricane Katrina delayed Cochon’s opening in the warehouse district for about six months, but that didn’t stop chef Donald Link from winning a Beard award in 2007 for Best Chef in the South. Pork specialties like ham hocks and the Cajun delicacy andouille have won him a devoted following. Call at least two weeks ahead of time for a weekend table, or take your chances on getting seated at the bar.

For a great restaurant uptown, try local institution Gautreau's. It opened 25 years ago, but current chef Sue Zemanick has reinvigorated the menu. For her efforts, Food & Wine named her one of the ten best new chefs in the country this year. Her modern French and traditional Louisiana style produces dishes like buttermilk fried artichokes with arugula and lemon-tarragon vinaigrette and crispy duck breast with torpedo onions, roasted peaches, wild rice, and natural jus.

Published on Nov 6, 2008 as a web exclusive.