From the outside, Le Voltaire (27 Quai Voltaire; 42-61-17-49) looks like a typical Seine-side tourist trap. But inside, tuxedo-clad waiters serve classic bistro fare to top fashion designers and art dealers, many of whom treat this place like their own private clubhouse. Reserve way in advance, but don't even bother calling when the fashion shows are in town (usually around mid-March and early October).
Jacques Garcia is one of Paris' preeminent designers, and the hippest new addition to his portfolio is La Grande Armée (3 avenue de la Grande Armée; 45-00-24-77). Playing on its location near the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the brasserie is stocked with life-size gilt soldiers at the entrance, lion's-head light fixtures, and drawings of uniformed infantry on the walls. It caters to the young and chic, who come to smoke, look fabulous, and nibble on steak tartare and caviar.
When you need a break from shopping in the Palais Royale, stop by Café Corrazza 1782 (12 Galerie Montpensier; 42-60-13-52). Once a hangout for Republicans plotting the French Revolution, today it offers a peaceful, shaded terrace where you can sip café au lait and snack on a piece of moist moelleux au chocolat.
Though upscale boutiques and stylish cafés have edged out kosher butchers in the Marais, crowds still brave loud, gruff L'As du Fallafel (34 rue des Rosiers; 48-87-63-60) for the best lamb shwarma and falafel sandwiches in town. Closed from Friday at dusk to Saturday evening for the Sabbath.