Choose from over 200 Italian wines at Pastificio San Lorenzo, a bistro and art-world hangout that opened last year (one of the owners is a curator). The spot includes unusual decorative touches, like a vintage pommel horse that doubles as a roomy bar stool.
Watch chefs at work through the glass-walled kitchen at Giuda Ballerino. Save euros by eating in the spot’s more casual adjacent osteria for half the price. Where the flagship’s entrées are a bit fussierófig reduction, white truffles, and sea urchin emulsion includedóthe osteria offers seasonal fresh pastas and simpler fare like meatballs or beef stew.
Snack on cheese and charcuterie at Chiostro del Bramante, a former cloister turned café that displays rotating contemporary-art exhibitions. The staff can recommend by-the-glass wine pairings (5 to 6 euros apiece) for each of more than a dozen varieties of carpaccio, cheese, and prosciutto.
Stretch your palate at Gelateria Fatamorgana, an inventive gelato parlor that serves nontraditional flavors like pear-Gorgonzola and dark-chocolate horseradish.