Sip fruit smoothies (approximately $3) and dig into vegetable burritos (approx. $6) at Zwart Café, an all-white space where the owner, a Canadian artist and surfer, hangs her whimsical neon murals and paintings. The breakfast and lunch spot draws laptop-toting expats and a few tourists who linger during the day over coffee and baked goods like brownies and granola bars (approx. $2), and it’s a good place to curl up on a couch with tall stacks of old magazines when you’re not out adventuring.
Eat organic greens and chicken from the owners’ sustainable farm at Mary’s (open for dinner only), a local favorite housed in a wooden hut shrouded by overgrown palm trees in the neighboring town of Malpais. Inside the lantern-lit space, nosh on fish tacos ($8) made with the daily catch or share brick-oven pizzas topped with fresh peppers, pineapple, or shrimp ($8-$11).
Enjoy the lively bar scene at Alma, an open-air eatery owned by a Chilean couple who developed the varied menu based on their world travels. Try the lemon-marinated Peruvian-style ceviche ($8) with tuna, mahi mahi, red onion and sweet potato ($8) and the Thai-influenced carpaccio of tuna or mahi mahi, drizzled with sesame oil ($9).