For cheap eats, nothing beats the island’s lolos, or roadside barbecue joints. Most offer similar fare, but Cole Bay’s Johnny B Under the Tree is among the most famous: Former five-star-hotel chef Johnny Bridgewater grills up tender, crispy baby back ribs and whole lobsters, served with fried plantains, rice and peas, and hot foil-wrapped flat bread (559-557-5576; Tues.–Sun., 5 p.m.–midnight).
If you’re looking for something fancier than a picnic table, Rosemary’s in Marigot is a bit more restaurantlike. You’ll be so distracted by the falling-off-the-bone goat curry, you won’t even notice the views of the parking lot (Place du Marché Front de Mer; 0690-30-98-18).
For a more formal meal, head to one of the French bistros on Grand Case’s restaurant row: The 50-seat, coral-colored Le Cottage is known for its foie gras and stellar wine list.