Dine with the local expats at La Casita Tapas & Wine Bar, a bustling spot that artfully showcases the local seafood bounty in small plates ($6 to $12) like chile rellenos stuffed with cured marlin or freshly caught camarones (shrimp) with grilled pineapple. Housed under a large palapa roof, the cozy, candlelit restaurant offers ambiance that’s a step above the plastic chairs of many other local spots, and you can sip Baja Peninsula wines at the bar if there’s a wait for a table.
Follow up a night of drinking damiana—an herb-infused vodka and Baja’s regional spirit—with a late-night meal at Tacos de Cabeza (Colegio Militar; no phone). Though it’s little more than a street stand with open-air seating and animal skulls as decoration, you’re here for the authentic cow-head tacos (two for about 75 cents) with all the fixings. If you’re feeling less adventurous, the more standard carne asada is also on offer.
Stop by Baja Beans on Sunday morning, when the laid-back café hosts an outdoor farmers market (9 a.m. to 2 p.m.). The single-origin roaster offers cups ($2 to $3) made with beans from Sierra Norte alongside freshly baked almond croissants ($2) and other pastries daily, but on Sundays they also offer a frittata brunch made with seasonal ingredients until supplies run out.