Take a day trip out of town to discover why Jacques Cousteau called this region “the aquarium of the world.” Drive 90 minutes north on scenic mountain roads to La Paz, then hire a charter like the Cortez Club for a half-day boat excursion to Los Islotes, a series of rock formations rising out of the water where you can snorkel with friendly sea lions ($87, including equipment and lunch). Alternatively, you can go diving to see coral reefs and swim with schools of fish. After working up an appetite, head back to La Paz’s seaside walkway for a plate of freshly shucked chocolate clams, Baja California Sur's unique culinary gem, at El Bismarkcito (intersection of Álvaro Obregón and Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla Streets, 612-128-9900). After lunch, head back toward Todos Santos, but on the way take a quick detour off Highway 1 to explore El Triunfo, a quirky one-street community with a population of 320. Formerly a deserted mining town, it’s now seeing a revival with new businesses including Caffé El Triunfo (no address; 612-157-1625). There, an Italian wood-burning oven is used to prepare artisan boules and perfectly blistered pizzas, which are topped with fresh cheeses from local rancheros. While in El Triunfo you can also stop into a museum of antique pianos; buy treats at a massive dulcería vending regional sweets, empanadas, and candies; and visit a few local ladies selling intricate woven baskets. Make your way back to Todos Santos for the night, which should take roughly 45 minutes. When you’re ready for dinner, walk over to Ristorante Tre Galline (Calle Juarez and Calle Topete; 612-145-0274) for plates of handmade pasta served by a couple who come from the Lake Garda region of Italy. Finish off the meal with a nightcap of their housemade damiana.
5. Oddball Day
Published on May 10, 2012 as a web exclusive.