The food stalls along Western Main Road in the St. James neighborhood start serving early in the morning and continue well into the night; look for the colorful tents and long lines. "Doubles" are the local favorite: spicy curried chickpeas served with tamarind sauce and chutney between two doughy dumplings. Even fans of fiery heat should ask for only "slight pepper." Mere mortals should request "no pepper."
Bake 'n' Shark is marinated shark meat deep-fried to order, stuffed into fried dough and topped by your choice of several dozen condiments. You'll find Trinidad's national dish just about everywhere, but loyalists swear by Richard's shack on Maracas Beach, the sandwich's birthplace. Richard’s is the one with the epic line.
When you're ready for a proper sit-down, join Port-of-Spain's growing crowd of foodies at Mélange (40 Ariapita Ave.; 868-628-8687). Owner and chef Moses Ruben incorporates classic Trini ingredients such as cassava into his changing menu of international offerings. Reservations aren't required, but be aware that most restaurants tack on a 10 percent service charge.