Catch up on the local gossip (including whether part-time residents Julian Schnabel and Damien Hirst are in town) at village hangout Café Sol (on the nameless main street, by the bridge; 52-755-553-2934), where Troncones’s gringos congregate for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. In the mornings, enjoy strong coffee and a chile-smothered omelette ($5); later in the day, try the great wood-fired pizza topped with green salsa, chiles, cilantro, and huitlacoche ($10).
Fill up on Argentinian-style grilled beef and lobster surf-and-turf (about $17) at Roberto’s Bistro, an open-air eatery on Troncones’s main beach. Roberto’s also runs a turtle hatchery and organizes the release of baby sea turtles into the ocean most nights of the year, which you can watch while you’re dining, but skip Saturday nights if you’re not a fan of slightly hokey local music and dancing.
Dine with your feet in the sand at Doña Nica (on the beach near the T-junction coming into town; 52-755-553-2822.), an outdoor restaurant with a clay-formed open kitchen, plastic chairs, and fresh-caught seafood. Try the fiery langosta a la diabla (about $15, depending on the size of the lobsters) or shrimp in a garlic sauce (about $12) with an ice-cold Victoria ($1.10), a lager not easily found outside Mexico.