Don’t miss dinner at Hartwood, where chef Eric Werner (formerly of Peasant) has been reinvigorating the locavore ethos in a region that had all but abandoned its farm-to-table beginnings. Thanks to alliances with farmers and fishermen, he sources the freshest ingredients for dishes like roast pork loin on white beans ($21) and whole fish with buttered young radishes ($19).
Dig into elevated street food at Dona Lordes (at the intersection of Calle Superior and Concha Maya), a family-run puesto (Mexican slang for “hole in the wall”) where corn for tortillas and tamales is ground daily in-house. Try tacos (75 cents each) made with truly free-range chicken—it hails from a small inland ranch owned by the clan’s patriarch.
Join the local crowd at the new El Camello Jr. (Avenida Tulum and Luna Sur), which serves seafood caught across the peninsula in the Gulf of Mexico’s Campeche region, best known for its sweet shrimp. Go during lunch, when the original, adjacent shop is open and you’ll find the owner cutting up the catch of the day, which is served whole and fried ($6) or turned into ceviche ($4–$9).