Try Hondurans’ favorite snack at the baleada stands on Main Street, run by a few mainland women, which open in the morning and don’t close until after the bars empty out. A basic baleada ($1) is a flour tortilla slathered with refried beans and cheese, but it can be stuffed with additional ingredients like chicken or scrambled eggs. On an island catering to international tourists, this is likely the only chance you’ll have to taste something representing local cuisine.
Rub elbows with yacht owners at the Driftwood Café (near Chepes Beach; no phone), a bar and grill on a wooden pier known for its large portions of comfort food, like Texas-style BBQ pork ribs ($9). On Sundays, all-day happy hours attract a rowdy bunch of locals and expats who play impromptu dice games and drink Monkey Balls ($2), which are chilled shots of homemade Kahlua.
Eat fresh pastas at La Piccola (left of the Main Street pier, 504-2425-3746), an intimate candlelit restaurant with a dozen open-air tables. Chef Kate Viglio came to Utila from Italy more than a decade ago and opened the restaurant in 2002. She serves classics like filet mignon or red snapper in pesto sauce ($12) and regales customers with her stories of falling in love with the island.
Cool off with a fruity licuado ($2) on the patio at Munchies (Main Street; 504-2425-3168), located in the Island House, a wooden structure that dates back to 1864. Breakfast is the most popular meal here, served all day to a crowd of backpackers who get their fix from granola ($3) and breakfast burritos ($4).