Follow the crooked streets of the old fisherman’s quarter to Ca’ Sento (17 Carrer Méndez Núñez; 34-96-330-1775) where Raul Aleixandre, who worked under Ferran Adrià at El Bulli, pairs his own unexpected flavors like green-apple ice over oysters.
Giant forks speared with wine corks flank the doorway of Burdeos in Love, where the food is almost secondary. Order a rich entrée, like thick cod with a Parmesan mousse, to keep up with some of the more robust Spanish reds.
If you can’t find it in Valencia’s Mercado Central, it probably doesn’t exist. The massive modernist market has everything from eels twitching on beds of ice to acorn-fattened haunches of jamón ibérico de bellota.