Dine beneath paintings by Klee, Chagall, and Kandinsky at Kronenhalle, a sceney, wood-paneled spot. The dishes—like local favorites viande des Grison (dried slices of beef; $38) and Züri Gschnatzlets (creamed veal with wine; $58)—are served from a trolley.
Nibble on affordable café fare like salads and sausages at Restaurant Volkshaus, a red-light district eatery favored by scruffy young designers, architects, and writers. Generous pours of Swiss wine are only $6 a glass.
Admire the Alpine view from Baur au Lac’s rotunda dining room, Pavillion, newly refurbished in 2008 with lavender and moss-colored Art Deco furniture. The haute cuisine is similarly ornate: Veal cutlets are glazed with citrus fruits ($66) and the Jerusalem artichoke gratin is finished with black Périgord truffles ($60). Call a few days in advance to snag a reservation.