Christmas Fish List

With the enduring popularity of Italian food, and the spate of trattorias and panini parlors opening on a weekly basis, it's no wonder that it's beginning to look a lot like an Italian Christmas. That means a Christmas Eve supper of seafood, alternately called il cenone, la vigilia, or Feast of the Seven Fishes (one for each of the holy sacraments). Never mind that the tradition has become more prevalent here than in the old country. Or that non-Italian kitchens, like Citarella and the Minnow, are getting in the cenone spirit with dishes like baccalà dumplings and marinated eel. There's a fishfest to suit every appetite. But act fast—Lupa and Babbo are already booked solid.

New chef Mark Strausman squeezes seven fishes into three family-style courses, from baked clams and fritto misto to roasted striped bass alla Siciliana. Manhattanites will find the same $45 prix fixe at Campagna, Strausman's Flatiron fixture.
Cucina
256 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope
718-230-0711

Chef David Pasternack plans to run his holiday menu for two weeks leading up to Christmas, offering ample opportunity to sample the crudo of the day, grilled octopus with blood oranges, baccalˆ, and fried local eel Neapolitan-style ($70; menu changes daily).
Esca
402 West 43rd Street
212-564-7272

Why stop at seven when you can have thirteen courses, signifying Christ and his disciples? But no one's expected to consume two antipasti, three soups, three pastas, and five main courses, which is why it's all offered à la carte.
Felidia
243 East 58th Street
212-758-1479

For his second annual Italian Christmas Eve, chef Marc Meyer serves up a $50 three-course feast featuring selections like frittura of Florida shrimp, hand-cut fettuccine with bottarga di tonno, and whole grilled orata. Save room for the ricotta-fritter finale.
Five Points
31 Great Jones Street
212-253-5700

Chef Martin Burge's $75 Feast of the Seven Fishes is a loose interpretation of the old-world custom. We'd wager that warm oysters and caviar with leek fondue and grilled squid stuffed with braised short ribs never graced a Neapolitan holiday table.
fresh
105 Reade Street
212-406-1900

Tony May keeps things relatively simple with a $70 five-course prix fixe, offered December 23 through 28 (except on Christmas). Chef Odette Fada's acclaimed way with risotto will be on display in a luxe version featuring oysters and Franciacorta spumante.
San Domenico NY
240 Central Park South
212-265-5959