Best Beef Cheeks
Fleur de Sel
5 East 20th Street
No wonder beef and veal cheeks are all the rage: The delectable little morsels of meat need a shorter braising time than beef ribs, and are much more tender and succulent. Chef Cyril Renaud at Fleur de Sel sets three pan-seared marinated braised beef cheeks atop a bed of chewy kamut (an ancient Egyptian grain) mixed with crisp squares of cabbage and a hint of fresh tarragon ($21 at lunch, $31 at dinner).
630 Ninth Avenue, at 44th Street
Chef Alex Ureña of Marseille has come up with a Mediterranean-inspired sandwich of warm veal cheeks packed inside pita, oozing with a Gruyère-cheese topping and a hint of horseradish cream ($15). Delicious crisp chickpea fries and a finely shredded salad round out this outstanding dish.