217 Eldridge St., 10002, between Stanton and Rivington Sts., 212-253-9199
A deliciously unsophisticated wild-boar lasagne guaranteed to make me lose my civility should anyone get too close with an errant fork.
We asked our house foodies to give us the lowdown on a few of their favorite things.
- Via Emilia
240 Park Ave. South, 10003, between 19th and 20th Sts., 212-505-3072
It’s properly wet and soupy without losing its structure, just like my mama never used to make.
- Cipriani Le Specialitŕ
110 E. 42nd St., 10017, between Lexington and Park Avenues, 212-557-5088
Alternating layers of sumptuous sauce and delicate, nearly diaphanous pasta prove you can never be too rich or too thin.
- Il Gattopardo
33 W. 54th St., 10019, between Fifth and Sixth Avenue, 212-246-0412
The Neapolitan lasagne di carnevale is a persuasive argument that the Emilia-Romagnan version is not the last word on the subject.
From the 2003 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).