121 West 10th Street, 212-255-3333
In an era when the city’s most accomplished restaurateurs are feverishly hawking lowbrow foods (barbecue, pizza, dim sum), it’s good to see someone shoot for the moon, albeit in a modest, almost neighborly way. Jefferson, which opened a few months ago in the West Village, looks like it’s been beamed down from one of the swankier precincts of Notting Hill or Stockholm. The smallish room, once a dowdy diner, is sheathed in muted tones of blond and white. The menu, as composed by Simpson Wong, proprietor of a Pan-Asian café next door, is filled with inventive fusion items like edamame ravioli and fresh snapper decked with slices of persimmon. In a town where trends come and go like the fickle spring weather, let’s hope this one continues. We’ll call it neighborhood chic..
Best New Neighborhood Joint
From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).