New York Magazine

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Best of New York Food 2004

Best Amuse-Bouche

  • Alain Ducasse at the Essex House

    155 West 58th Street, 212-265-7300

    Gougères, those wonderfully light cheese puffs, have been elevated to new heights by chef de cuisine Didier Elena at Alain Ducasse, where the little Burgundian delicacies get a surprise creamy cheese filling. The airy, puffy choux pastry shell, flavored with comte cheese from the Jura, is filled with Mornay sauce while still hot and crisp, then served immediately on a silver-edged Lalique plate as a welcoming hors d’oeuvre with an aperitif. Avoid the temptation to take a bite. The cheese might ooze and ruin the evening. Happily, they’re small enough to pop into the mouth whole for an unexpectedly intense cheesy sensation.

From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

Order the Issue Today

Cover of New York Magazine's Best of New York issue

Order This Issue

Other Best Of Guides

Where can you find the city’s top dog groomer? Last-minute tailor? Beef tongue? We eat, drink, dance, shop, shvitz, and trampoline our way around the city, not to mention poll scores of in-the-know colleagues, hard-partying friends, opinionated family members, and, this year, a team of guest expert bloggers to bring you answers to all of the above questions, and hundreds more, in the form of our annual “Best of New York” issue.