New York Magazine

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Best of New York Food 2004

Best Antidote to a Vegetarian Feast

  • Carl's Steaks

    507 Third Avenue, 212-696-5336

    New York’s never been much of a cheesesteak town, as any pesky Philly expat will tell you. Then, a couple of years ago, came Gary Thompson and his BB Sandwich Bar—a noble, if brazenly unorthodox attempt, served on a kaiser roll—and good cheesesteaks started turning up at places like Schnäck in Carroll Gardens and uptown at Fetch, whose native-Philadelphian chef picks up fresh rolls from Amoroso’s, the Philly bakery said to supply Jim’s and Geno’s. Newcomer Wogie’s, run by two brothers from Philly with something to prove, is another one to watch. But Carl’s Steaks takes the prize, not only for its obscenely great cheesesteak oozing with the unholy trinity of chopped meat, Cheez Whiz, and onions, all barely contained by a grease-thirsty roll, but for its spot-on ambience: the egalitarian crowd of suits and drunkards from nearby pubs; the television blaring; a 4 a.m. closing time on weekends; and a supremely greasy stench that will permeate your clothes in the time it takes to say “cheese wit.”

From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

Order the Issue Today

Cover of New York Magazine's Best of New York issue

Order This Issue

Other Best Of Guides

Where can you find the city’s top dog groomer? Last-minute tailor? Beef tongue? We eat, drink, dance, shop, shvitz, and trampoline our way around the city, not to mention poll scores of in-the-know colleagues, hard-partying friends, opinionated family members, and, this year, a team of guest expert bloggers to bring you answers to all of the above questions, and hundreds more, in the form of our annual “Best of New York” issue.