154 West 13th Street, 212-989-7699
With the avalanche of new restaurants like Asiate, Riingo, and the Biltmore Room, the city is once again awash in fancy, Asian-influenced food. These new fusion houses have their charms, but the single best modest example of the genre is found at Sumile, in the West Village. This is the culinary home of chef Josh DeChellis, whose sophisticated Franco-Asian repertoire includes wheels of dungeness crab flavored with yuzu gelée (and Sevruga caviar), skate mingled with Japanese eggplant, and a fine poached duck breast spiked with a sake–and–foie gras emulsion. If you’re weary of fusion mania, then just order the veal pressé. It’s served with a tangy version of salsa verde and sprinkled with a platoon of crunchy, salty duck tongues.
Best Asian Fusion
From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
Where can you find the city’s top dog groomer? Last-minute tailor? Beef tongue? We eat, drink, dance, shop, shvitz, and trampoline our way around the city, not to mention poll scores of in-the-know colleagues, hard-partying friends, opinionated family members, and, this year, a team of guest expert bloggers to bring you answers to all of the above questions, and hundreds more, in the form of our annual “Best of New York” issue.