80 Columbus Circle, 212-805-8881
The décor is sleek, the menu spare—even chef Nori Sugie’s name is economically cropped. So you’d expect his entrées to continue with the same sublime minimalism. Except Sugie’s filet de boeuf could come straight from a cast-iron kettle over a roaring fire, his lobster en cocotte would feel equally right served at a wooden picnic table dockside, and, best of all, his potted duck is a swooningly hearty pile-on of confit and foie gras in a Peking duck broth so rich and fragrant you’re likely to remember this as the meal you really should be feasting on next Thanksgiving.
From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).