• 360

  360 Van Brunt Street, Red Hook, Brooklyn, 718-246-0360

  The prix fixe is usually a lazy man’s meal, an easy way to mark time at a restaurant without paying much money, or much attention to your food. But laziness is not an option at 360, where just finding the place (in Red Hook) requires the navigational skills of a Kalahari bushman. Once you’ve finally arrived, the choices on the daily $20 menu will make your head spin. Should you indulge in the cream-of-mussel soup as an appetizer, or the impossibly fresh quenelles of steak tartare? For an entrée, maybe you’d like the pork belly, braised for days, to a kind of candied tenderness, or little nodules of monkfish piled over mounds of buttered cabbage? Remember one thing as you deliberate: At 360, it’s all worth the effort.

From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine