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Spanish-mackerel tartare topped with Iranian Osetra caviar and an egg-caper vinaigrette is one of Eric Ripert’s signature dishes at Le Bernardin. One would have thought it impossible to top, but Michael Vernon, a former Ripert sous-chef, has done just that. At Geisha, the exciting new French-Asian-fusion restaurant, the student gives his teacher’s dish a bit of an Eastern twist (Ripert, mind you, consulted on the original menu). Superfresh Spanish mackerel is diced and tossed with a combination of coriander and scallion. Pale-green wasabi tobiko crowns the tartare, adding an exciting contrast to the silky mackerel. A swirl of wasabi-citrus vinaigrette surrounds the tartare, adding just the right amount of acidity to balance this bracing dish.
From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).