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Like truffle oil and escargot, Kobe beef is one of those overhyped, overpriced, overexposed delicacies that never quite live up to their reputation. Not, that is, until Marcus Samuelsson and his maestro sushi chef, Shigenori Tanaka (formerly of Jewel Bako), began serving a sushi variation of the dish at their new restaurant, Riingo. This Kobe isn’t bombed with too much teriyaki sauce or charred within an inch of its life. It’s presented raw over a mound of rice, with a little topping of ground daikon. In this chaste state, the beef gives off a pinkish glow (like the finest o-toro tuna belly), and leaves a slick of richness, which the daikon cuts in a most pleasing way, as it slides down the throat (like o-toro). Sadly (like o-toro), it costs $8 per piece.
From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
Where can you find the city’s top dog groomer? Last-minute tailor? Beef tongue? We eat, drink, dance, shop, shvitz, and trampoline our way around the city, not to mention poll scores of in-the-know colleagues, hard-partying friends, opinionated family members, and, this year, a team of guest expert bloggers to bring you answers to all of the above questions, and hundreds more, in the form of our annual “Best of New York” issue.