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- Riingo
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205 East 45th Street, 212-867-4200
Like truffle oil and escargot, Kobe beef is one of those overhyped, overpriced, overexposed delicacies that never quite live up to their reputation. Not, that is, until Marcus Samuelsson and his maestro sushi chef, Shigenori Tanaka (formerly of Jewel Bako), began serving a sushi variation of the dish at their new restaurant, Riingo. This Kobe isn’t bombed with too much teriyaki sauce or charred within an inch of its life. It’s presented raw over a mound of rice, with a little topping of ground daikon. In this chaste state, the beef gives off a pinkish glow (like the finest o-toro tuna belly), and leaves a slick of richness, which the daikon cuts in a most pleasing way, as it slides down the throat (like o-toro). Sadly (like o-toro), it costs $8 per piece.
Best Un-Sushi
From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
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Our mission this year: to hunt down not just the best but the best values in the eating, shopping, drinking, and general-consuming universe of New York. It’s quite the process, this, requiring eating and shopping and drinking (all in the name of research), followed by heated but civil discussion, and heated but less-civil discussion, until a winner emerges in each category.



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