Look: A glass-and-chrome sixties duplex Rock Hudson
and Tony Randall might have shared. Rock would have
lived up top, natch.
The Crowd: Flashin'-forward types from Lower
Park Avenue. Downstairs, overcrowded same-sex tables;
upstairs, tense third dates. But the food makes it worth
The Appeal: If they'd all shut up and chew for
a minute, they'd discover Gavin Citron is a really talented
The Meal: Steamed truffle dumplings, smoked venison
on birchwood, cardamom-cappuccino sundae.
The Mistake: Thursday night.
Plus: More Best