As far as bar food goes, Sam DeMarco’s “Buffalo lollipop wings” at Merge and First are hard to beat. Thanks to some skillful trimming, each one is a plump and tasty mini-drumstick, no mere inkling of meat attached to a lot of skin and bone. For takeout, Kumquat, Clementine’s to-go annex, delivers reliably hot and tangy wings several notches above the competition. But the overall prize for piquancy goes to Le Zinc’s Chinese-flavored duck wings. Chef Michael Sullivan poaches the wings in Chinese red cooking liquid until the precise moment before the meat falls off the bone, dredges them in cornstarch, deep-fries them, and coats them with a blend of salt and Sichuan pepper. The results are deliciously spicy-hot, not hot-sauce-hot. Three meaty wings that make their chicken brethren look scrawny by comparison come with a delectable, fermented-black-bean dipping sauce, proving with typical downstate arrogance that Buffalo’s got nothing on TriBeCa by way of Chinatown.