There is nothing comparable in Manhattan

lilacwine from 10301 | Posted on 11/19/07

I have been a weekly regular since they opened. The menu changes daily and rarely repeats. Often it is a totally spontaneous creation. One cook informed us that she did not know what she was going to make that day until she walked in the door, preferring to let her intuition decide in the moment. She made a bacon risotto, a first-time creation, that was the best I ever had. I imagine this kind of spontaneity is just too risky for most restaurants. Some things that impress me- the fish is always whole; they regularly serve organ meats as though oblivious to the fact that most americans restrict their proteins to beef, chicken, and pork; each cook is also an accomplished bread and pastry chef, foccacia is baked on site daily and the desserts go beyond ubiquitous tiramisu; the wines that benefit from decanting actually come with a decanter (it baffles me why even the most wine-savvy restaurants fail to do this). They just imported a new cook from Milan. We tried her tomato bread soup and profiteroles. We were astounded. BTW, they are now closed Mondays and open Sunday afternoons.

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