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Jean Georges |
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Jean Georges' superstar pastry chef
Johnny Iuzzini sugar-shocks diners with unexpected pairings
of flavors and textures, like chocolate ravioli with goat cheese,
mascarpone, robiola, vanilla bean, and orange zest. Themes change
seasonally. |
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1 Central Park
W., between 60th and 61st Sts., 212-299-3900, jean-georges.com |
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Beppe |
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This cozy Gramercy trattoriaone of New York's best
Italian restaurants since it opened in 2001serves chef
Cesare Casella's luscious Tuscan fare. Casella’s cozze (pan-roasted
mussels) are plump and sweet in a fiery broth; chewy handmade
pinci noodles in walnut-tomato sauce are a triumph; and the
braised black cabbage in toasted Tuscan bread will sate any
carb cravings.
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45 E. 22nd
St., between Broadway and Park Ave. S., 212-982-8422, beppenyc.com |
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Blue Smoke |
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Danny Meyer's smoking barbecue joint
is helmed by pit master Kenny Callaghan, who dazzles diners
with burgers and brisket, not to mention smoked lamb shoulder,
salt-and-pepper beef ribs, pit-smoked foie gras, and hand-roasted
salmon. Even sides like collards and cole slaw are finger-licking
good. |
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116 E. 27th
St., between Park and Lexington Aves., 212-447-7733, jazzstandard.com |
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DB Bistro Moderne |
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In Daniel Boulud's hands,
the humble hamburger is transformed into the ultimate luxury
item. The noble (and somewhat infamous) $29 DB Burger is stuffed
with truffle-and-foie gras-laced short ribs, and is accompanied
by pommes frites on the side.
Plan B: At $6, Corner
Bistro's eight-ounce slab of juicy grilled beefpiled
several inches high with melted cheese, bacon, and raw onionis
one of the city's tastiest beef bargains. |
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DB Bistro Moderne:
155 W. 44th St., between Fifth and Sixth Aves., 212-391-2400,
danielnyc.com
Corner Bistro: 331 W. 4th St., at Jane St., 212-242-9502 |
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Café
Sabarsky |
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Housed in the Neue Galerie, the café
is an elegant evocation of a Viennese-style kaffeehaus with
rattan newspaper holders (filled with Austrian newspapers),
plenty of delicious Viennese pastries, and coffee served the
old-fashioned way: on a silver tray with a cup of water on the
side. |
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1048 Fifth
Ave., at 86th St., 212-288-0665, wallserestaurant.com
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Chennai Garden |
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What elevates Chennai Garden’s unlimited
$5.95 spread above the entrenched Curry Hill competition is
its spiffy setting and the freshness, flavor, and variety of
dishes. Line up for daily dal, subtly spiced vegetable curry,
saffron-hued cabbage, and silky, floral-scented puddings for
dessert. |
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129 E. 27th
St., between Park and Lexington Aves., 212-689-1999, chennaigarden.com
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Strip
House |
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You won't find a better steak anywhere
than the $70 double-cut New York strip served in this aptly
blood-red beef den. Crunch through a slightly salty, exquisitely
seasoned crust into the tenderest, most mouth-fillingly flavorful
beef imaginable. Add a hot little igloo of potatoes fried in
goose fat and perfect spinach in truffled cream, and you'll
never suffer lesser steakhouses again. |
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Plan B: At Daniel,
Daniel Boulud shows he knows meat with extraordinary, sumptuously
juicy red-wine-braised ribs paired with a peppered filet mignon. |
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Strip House:
13 E. 12th St., between University Pl. and Fifth Ave., 212-328-0000,
theglaziergroup.com
Daniel: 60 E. 65th St., between Park and Madison Aves.,
212-288-0033, danielnyc.com
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Lever House
Restaurant |
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Say "power lunch" in this town and most New Yorkers
picture the recently opened Lever House or the classic Four
Seasons. For service, you just can't beat the new kid. The
professional, personable, and (very) good-looking group of
LH servers has an acute awareness that it’s ultimately the
customers who should feel fabulous, not them.
Plan B: The Four
Seasons still has the most perfect dining rooms in town.
Happily, they've radically altered an expensive menu to be
more inventive, more seasoned, more current, and worth the
bucks. "Just slouching at the bar feels powerful,"
says critic Adam Platt.
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Lever House:
390 Park Ave., at 53rd St., 212-888-2700, leverhouse.com
The Four Seasons: 99 E. 52nd St., between Lexington and
Park Aves., 212-754-9494 |
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Florent |
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This fab version of a late-night
Les Halles coffee shop serves fragrant mussels, dense boudin
noir, and crispy herbed half-chicken for not much more than
you'd pay for grilled cheese in a greasy spoon. |
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69 Gansevoort
St., between Greenwich and Washington Sts., 212-989-5779, restaurantflorent.com |
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Prune |
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Prune's phenomenal weekend brunch is worth the
trip just to read chef-owner Gabrielle Hamilton's truly inspired
menu, which features nine creative variations on the Bloody
Mary theme, plus unusual offerings like a marvelously peppery
spaghetti carbonara and a killer Monte Cristo with a side of
fried eggs and red-currant jelly. |
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54 E. 1st St.,
between First and Second Aves., 212-677-6221 |
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Le Bernardin |
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At this internationally renowned French seafood
restaurantone of the city's top restaurantseven
chef Eric Ripert's version of the baked potato is straight from
the sea: it’s a savory mash of dill-scented smoked salmon, potato
crème fraîche, and Osetra caviar. |
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155 W. 51st
St., between Sixth and Seventh Aves., 212-554-1515, le-bernardin.com |
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Giorgione
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Complicated toppings do not make a pizza pie,
and at Giorgione, the boisterous crowd clamors for Chef Jody
Williams’s ultra-fresh, sparingly topped Neapolitans. It looks
like owner Giorgio DeLuca (creator of groundbreaking Dean &
DeLuca) is on to something again.
Plan B: Try
one of these. |
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307 Spring St., between Hudson and Greenwich Sts., 212-352-2269 |
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Daisy
May's Chili Cart |
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New York is a place where you can find it allincluding
authentic Texas chili from a pushcart. The movable feast, available
in three locations, is made with juicy cubes of hand-cut chuck
the size of Vegas dice and stewed in an ambrosial mix of chilies,
including New Mexican hatch. |
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Near 40 Wall
St.; Broadway at 39th St.; Sixth Ave. at 50th St. |
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2nd Avenue
Deli |
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This East Village landmark is a must for dedicated
deli denizens who are gluttons for thick and juicy pastrami
sandwiches, crispy fries, chicken in the pot, near-lethal knishes,
and hard-boiled service.
Plan B: Katz's Delicatessen
is the oldest deli in New York, and the only one where the pastrami
and corned beef are still hand-cut and Meg Ryan faked an orgasm. |
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2nd Avenue Deli, 156 Second Ave., at 10th
St., 212-677-0606
Katzs Delicatessen, 205 Houston St. at Ludlow St.,
212-254-2246 |
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Matsuri |
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Owners and designers Eric Goode and Sean MacPherson
(in conjunction with Mikio Shinagawa) have transformed this
vast, vaulted, problematic Quonset-hut-shaped space into a wonderfully
trippy, comfortably slouchy supper-club-in-space. The acoustics
create a sense of intimacy, and though you can see everyone,
you never feel on display. |
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369 W. 16th
St., Maritime Hotel, at Ninth Ave., 212-243-6400 |
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'Wichcraft
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Life’s too short to eat a mediocre sandwich. From
the breakfast fried egg and bacon on ciabatta, enriched with
Gorgonzola and leavened with frisée, to the briny Sicilian tuna
with its fresh fennel crunch and tart lemon slivers, ’Wichcraft’s
sandwiches are masterpieces of bold flavor and balanced texture.
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49 E. 19th
St., between Park Ave. S. and Broadway, 212-780-0577, wichcraftnyc.com |
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Masa |
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Expect to pay $300 each for the chef’s omakase
lunch or dinnerprovided you’ve made a reservation for
one of the 26 seats . |
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Plan B: Back on planet earth, Japonica’s
high standards, skilled masters, and huge turnover mean some
of the freshest and most varied selection of sushi to be found
downtown. |
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Masa: 10 Columbus
Circle at 59th St., 4th Floor, 212-823-9800, masanyc.com
Japonica: 100 University Pl., at 12th St., 212-243-7752 |
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In
Vino |
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Forget what you know of Southern Italian wines
like Chianti, Barolo, or Barber. In proprietor Luigi Iasilli’s
snug, cavelike room, extremely well-versed waiters explain the
subtle differences between a Sardinian Cannonau, a Sicilian
Nero d’Avola, and a Campanian Aglianico—just a few of the winning
Southern Italian wines you’ll come across on the voluminous
list. |
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215 E. 4th
St., between Aves. A and B, 212-539-1011 |
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Il
Laboratorio Del Gelato |
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In this cool-looking slip of a store, indulge
yourself from a rotating array of 100 irresistible gelatos and
sorbets, all handmade on the premises, in small batches, from
locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Favorites include hazelnut,
coffee, banana, ginger, and an intense dark chocolate. |
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95 Orchard
St., between Broome and Delancey Sts., 212-343-9922, laboratoriodelgelato.com |
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River Café |
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Dining on this comfortably lounge-lit
floating barge, simply decorated to defer to the obvious visual
splendor, with a pianist who cannily plinks instead of plunders,
is like living in a Woody Allen movie—one of the wonderful ones,
with all the Gershwin, and the specter of looming lechery replaced
by the possibility of a happy ending. |
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1 Water St.,
Brooklyn, 718-522-5200, rivercafe.com |
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Pastis |
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This Meatpacking District hangout has artfully
rusted tin ceilings and greasy finger smudges on the walls,
wine by the carafe poured into small tumblers, homey crocks
of onion soup sealed with Gruyère, and fabulous frites standing
up in a paper-lined tin scoop. |
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9 Ninth Ave.,
at Little W. 12th St., 212-929-4844, pastisny.com |
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Per Se |
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Thomas Keller's West Coast kitchen, The French Laundry, is
widely touted as the best restaurant in America. That's a
lot to live up to. While the setting in the Time Warner Center
is questionable, the food is beautifully conceived, elegantly
presented (on a new Thomas Keller line of dishes by Raynaud),
and as varied as the colors of the rainbow. The menu, which
changes daily, is a jumble of bite-size tastings, the most
modest of which involves five courses ($125) including cheese
and dessert.
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10 Columbus
Circle, at 60th St., fourth fl., 212-893-9335, frenchlaundry.com/perse.htm |
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Spice
Market |
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Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s sexy Asian fantasia
riles you up with bustling servers, clad and half-clad (the
women’s outfits are backless) in orange, then slows it down
a step with a slinky subterranean hideaway for lovers and lotharios. |
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Plan B: At Bao
111, the house cocktail is as spicy as the nouvelle Vietnamese
food, the lighting low, and the vibe vaguely illicit. |
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Spice Market:
403 W. 13th St., at Ninth Ave., 212-675-2322, jean-georges.com
Bao 111: 111 Ave. C, between 7th and 8th Sts., 212- 254-7773,
bao111.com |
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Jewel Bako |
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The charmingly snug 24-seat dining room is clad
in dramatic bamboo arches that lead back to the six-seat sushi
bar, where chef Masato Shimizu reigns over a piscatory realm
of imported rarities like Japanese spotted sardines and ark-shell
clams. |
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239 E. 5th
St., between Second and Third Aves., 212-979-1012 |
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The Grocery |
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Charles Kiely and Sharon Pachter’s 30-seat storefront
mom-and-pop shop exudes a low-key charm that's hard to resist.
Their Brooklyn location, however, allows them to charge sub-SoHo
prices for inspired dishes like charred octopus with cucumber,
avacado and pistachio vinegrette or slow-rendered duck breast
with toasted bulgur pilaf, sauteed watercress and carmelized
red wine sauce. |
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288 Smith St.,
between Union and Sackett Sts., 718-596-3335 |
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La Bottega |
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Equipped with whirling fans, marble-topped tables,
nautical-striped awnings, and hanging lanterns, La Bottega's
outdoor patio has a genteel cabana feel that’s relaxed and inviting,
and when the air gets chilly, outdoor heaters and the bistro-like
indoor bar's crimson banquettes make for similarly comfortable
all-season lounging. |
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88 Ninth Ave.,
Maritime Hotel, at 17th St., 212-243-8400 |
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Published August 19, 2004
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