New York Magazine



     
    Save Room for Dessert
  Jean Georges
    Jean Georges' superstar pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini sugar-shocks diners with unexpected pairings of flavors and textures, like chocolate ravioli with goat cheese, mascarpone, robiola, vanilla bean, and orange zest. Themes change seasonally.
    • 1 Central Park W., between 60th and 61st Sts., 212-299-3900, jean-georges.com
     
    Best Reason to Abandon Atkins
  Beppe
   

This cozy Gramercy trattoria—one of New York's best Italian restaurants since it opened in 2001—serves chef Cesare Casella's luscious Tuscan fare. Casella’s cozze (pan-roasted mussels) are plump and sweet in a fiery broth; chewy handmade pinci noodles in walnut-tomato sauce are a triumph; and the braised black cabbage in toasted Tuscan bread will sate any carb cravings.

    • 45 E. 22nd St., between Broadway and Park Ave. S., 212-982-8422, beppenyc.com
     
    B.B.Q. in N.Y.C.
  Blue Smoke
    Danny Meyer's smoking barbecue joint is helmed by pit master Kenny Callaghan, who dazzles diners with burgers and brisket, not to mention smoked lamb shoulder, salt-and-pepper beef ribs, pit-smoked foie gras, and hand-roasted salmon. Even sides like collards and cole slaw are finger-licking good.
    • 116 E. 27th St., between Park and Lexington Aves., 212-447-7733, jazzstandard.com
     
    Satiate Your Burger Craving
  DB Bistro Moderne
    In Daniel Boulud's hands, the humble hamburger is transformed into the ultimate luxury item. The noble (and somewhat infamous) $29 DB Burger is stuffed with truffle-and-foie gras-laced short ribs, and is accompanied by pommes frites on the side.
Plan B: At $6, Corner Bistro's eight-ounce slab of juicy grilled beef—piled several inches high with melted cheese, bacon, and raw onion—is one of the city's tastiest beef bargains.
    • DB Bistro Moderne: 155 W. 44th St., between Fifth and Sixth Aves., 212-391-2400, danielnyc.com
• Corner Bistro: 331 W. 4th St., at Jane St., 212-242-9502
     
    Walk Straight Past Starbucks
  Café Sabarsky
    Housed in the Neue Galerie, the café is an elegant evocation of a Viennese-style kaffeehaus with rattan newspaper holders (filled with Austrian newspapers), plenty of delicious Viennese pastries, and coffee served the old-fashioned way: on a silver tray with a cup of water on the side.
    • 1048 Fifth Ave., at 86th St., 212-288-0665, wallserestaurant.com
     
    Take Your Vegetarian Friends Out
  Chennai Garden
    What elevates Chennai Garden’s unlimited $5.95 spread above the entrenched Curry Hill competition is its spiffy setting and the freshness, flavor, and variety of dishes. Line up for daily dal, subtly spiced vegetable curry, saffron-hued cabbage, and silky, floral-scented puddings for dessert.
    • 129 E. 27th St., between Park and Lexington Aves., 212-689-1999, chennaigarden.com
     
    Leave Your Vegetarian Friends at Home
  Strip House
    You won't find a better steak anywhere than the $70 double-cut New York strip served in this aptly blood-red beef den. Crunch through a slightly salty, exquisitely seasoned crust into the tenderest, most mouth-fillingly flavorful beef imaginable. Add a hot little igloo of potatoes fried in goose fat and perfect spinach in truffled cream, and you'll never suffer lesser steakhouses again.
    Plan B: At Daniel, Daniel Boulud shows he knows meat with extraordinary, sumptuously juicy red-wine-braised ribs paired with a peppered filet mignon.
    Strip House: 13 E. 12th St., between University Pl. and Fifth Ave., 212-328-0000, theglaziergroup.com
• Daniel: 60 E. 65th St., between Park and Madison Aves., 212-288-0033, danielnyc.com
     
    Get the Royal Treatment
  Lever House Restaurant
   

Say "power lunch" in this town and most New Yorkers picture the recently opened Lever House or the classic Four Seasons. For service, you just can't beat the new kid. The professional, personable, and (very) good-looking group of LH servers has an acute awareness that it’s ultimately the customers who should feel fabulous, not them.
Plan B: The Four Seasons still has the most perfect dining rooms in town. Happily, they've radically altered an expensive menu to be more inventive, more seasoned, more current, and worth the bucks. "Just slouching at the bar feels powerful," says critic Adam Platt.

    • Lever House: 390 Park Ave., at 53rd St., 212-888-2700, leverhouse.com
• The Four Seasons: 99 E. 52nd St., between Lexington and Park Aves., 212-754-9494
     
    Stay Out Late
  Florent
    This fab version of a late-night Les Halles coffee shop serves fragrant mussels, dense boudin noir, and crispy herbed half-chicken for not much more than you'd pay for grilled cheese in a greasy spoon.
    • 69 Gansevoort St., between Greenwich and Washington Sts., 212-989-5779, restaurantflorent.com
     
    Wake Up Early (or Before Dinner)
    Prune
    Prune's phenomenal weekend brunch is worth the trip just to read chef-owner Gabrielle Hamilton's truly inspired menu, which features nine creative variations on the Bloody Mary theme, plus unusual offerings like a marvelously peppery spaghetti carbonara and a killer Monte Cristo with a side of fried eggs and red-currant jelly.
    • 54 E. 1st St., between First and Second Aves., 212-677-6221
     
    Hook the Best Catch of the Day
    Le Bernardin
    At this internationally renowned French seafood restaurant—one of the city's top restaurants—even chef Eric Ripert's version of the baked potato is straight from the sea: it’s a savory mash of dill-scented smoked salmon, potato crème fraîche, and Osetra caviar.
    • 155 W. 51st St., between Sixth and Seventh Aves., 212-554-1515, le-bernardin.com
     
    Forget Ray’s Original
    Giorgione
    Complicated toppings do not make a pizza pie, and at Giorgione, the boisterous crowd clamors for Chef Jody Williams’s ultra-fresh, sparingly topped Neapolitans. It looks like owner Giorgio DeLuca (creator of groundbreaking Dean & DeLuca) is on to something again.
Plan B: Try one of these.
    • 307 Spring St., between Hudson and Greenwich Sts., 212-352-2269
     
    Eat on the Street
    Daisy May's Chili Cart
    New York is a place where you can find it all—including authentic Texas chili from a pushcart. The movable feast, available in three locations, is made with juicy cubes of hand-cut chuck the size of Vegas dice and stewed in an ambrosial mix of chilies, including New Mexican hatch.
    • Near 40 Wall St.; Broadway at 39th St.; Sixth Ave. at 50th St.
     
    Visit a Classic New York Deli
    2nd Avenue Deli
    This East Village landmark is a must for dedicated deli denizens who are gluttons for thick and juicy pastrami sandwiches, crispy fries, chicken in the pot, near-lethal knishes, and hard-boiled service.
Plan B: Katz's Delicatessen is the oldest deli in New York, and the only one where the pastrami and corned beef are still hand-cut and Meg Ryan faked an orgasm.
    • 2nd Avenue Deli, 156 Second Ave., at 10th St., 212-677-0606
• Katz’s Delicatessen, 205 Houston St. at Ludlow St., 212-254-2246
     
    Get Distracted by Interior Design
    Matsuri
    Owners and designers Eric Goode and Sean MacPherson (in conjunction with Mikio Shinagawa) have transformed this vast, vaulted, problematic Quonset-hut-shaped space into a wonderfully trippy, comfortably slouchy supper-club-in-space. The acoustics create a sense of intimacy, and though you can see everyone, you never feel on display.
    • 369 W. 16th St., Maritime Hotel, at Ninth Ave., 212-243-6400
     
    Reconsider the Sandwich
    'Wichcraft
    Life’s too short to eat a mediocre sandwich. From the breakfast fried egg and bacon on ciabatta, enriched with Gorgonzola and leavened with frisée, to the briny Sicilian tuna with its fresh fennel crunch and tart lemon slivers, ’Wichcraft’s sandwiches are masterpieces of bold flavor and balanced texture.
    • 49 E. 19th St., between Park Ave. S. and Broadway, 212-780-0577, wichcraftnyc.com
     
    Sushi Cravings
    Masa
    Expect to pay $300 each for the chef’s omakase lunch or dinner—provided you’ve made a reservation for one of the 26 seats .
    Plan B: Back on planet earth, Japonica’s high standards, skilled masters, and huge turnover mean some of the freshest and most varied selection of sushi to be found downtown.
    • Masa: 10 Columbus Circle at 59th St., 4th Floor, 212-823-9800, masanyc.com
• Japonica: 100 University Pl., at 12th St., 212-243-7752
     
    Enjoy a Nice Vintage
    In Vino
    Forget what you know of Southern Italian wines like Chianti, Barolo, or Barber. In proprietor Luigi Iasilli’s snug, cavelike room, extremely well-versed waiters explain the subtle differences between a Sardinian Cannonau, a Sicilian Nero d’Avola, and a Campanian Aglianico—just a few of the winning Southern Italian wines you’ll come across on the voluminous list.
    • 215 E. 4th St., between Aves. A and B, 212-539-1011
     
    Forget about Tasti D-Lite
    Il Laboratorio Del Gelato
    In this cool-looking slip of a store, indulge yourself from a rotating array of 100 irresistible gelatos and sorbets, all handmade on the premises, in small batches, from locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Favorites include hazelnut, coffee, banana, ginger, and an intense dark chocolate.
    • 95 Orchard St., between Broome and Delancey Sts., 212-343-9922, laboratoriodelgelato.com
     
    Where to Pop the Question
    River Café
    Dining on this comfortably lounge-lit floating barge, simply decorated to defer to the obvious visual splendor, with a pianist who cannily plinks instead of plunders, is like living in a Woody Allen movie—one of the wonderful ones, with all the Gershwin, and the specter of looming lechery replaced by the possibility of a happy ending.
    • 1 Water St., Brooklyn, 718-522-5200, rivercafe.com
     
    Pretend You're In Paris
    Pastis
    This Meatpacking District hangout has artfully rusted tin ceilings and greasy finger smudges on the walls, wine by the carafe poured into small tumblers, homey crocks of onion soup sealed with Gruyère, and fabulous frites standing up in a paper-lined tin scoop.
    • 9 Ninth Ave., at Little W. 12th St., 212-929-4844, pastisny.com
     
    Save a Trip to California
    Per Se
   

Thomas Keller's West Coast kitchen, The French Laundry, is widely touted as the best restaurant in America. That's a lot to live up to. While the setting in the Time Warner Center is questionable, the food is beautifully conceived, elegantly presented (on a new Thomas Keller line of dishes by Raynaud), and as varied as the colors of the rainbow. The menu, which changes daily, is a jumble of bite-size tastings, the most modest of which involves five courses ($125) including cheese and dessert.

    • 10 Columbus Circle, at 60th St., fourth fl., 212-893-9335, frenchlaundry.com/perse.htm
     
    Score a Second Date
    Spice Market
    Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s sexy Asian fantasia riles you up with bustling servers, clad and half-clad (the women’s outfits are backless) in orange, then slows it down a step with a slinky subterranean hideaway for lovers and lotharios.
    Plan B: At Bao 111, the house cocktail is as spicy as the nouvelle Vietnamese food, the lighting low, and the vibe vaguely illicit.
    • Spice Market: 403 W. 13th St., at Ninth Ave., 212-675-2322, jean-georges.com
• Bao 111: 111 Ave. C, between 7th and 8th Sts., 212- 254-7773, bao111.com
     
    Get a Little Closer
    Jewel Bako
    The charmingly snug 24-seat dining room is clad in dramatic bamboo arches that lead back to the six-seat sushi bar, where chef Masato Shimizu reigns over a piscatory realm of imported rarities like Japanese spotted sardines and ark-shell clams.
    • 239 E. 5th St., between Second and Third Aves., 212-979-1012
     
    Find a Bargain in Brooklyn
    The Grocery
    Charles Kiely and Sharon Pachter’s 30-seat storefront mom-and-pop shop exudes a low-key charm that's hard to resist. Their Brooklyn location, however, allows them to charge sub-SoHo prices for inspired dishes like charred octopus with cucumber, avacado and pistachio vinegrette or slow-rendered duck breast with toasted bulgur pilaf, sauteed watercress and carmelized red wine sauce.
    • 288 Smith St., between Union and Sackett Sts., 718-596-3335
     
    Eat Al Fresco
    La Bottega
    Equipped with whirling fans, marble-topped tables, nautical-striped awnings, and hanging lanterns, La Bottega's outdoor patio has a genteel cabana feel that’s relaxed and inviting, and when the air gets chilly, outdoor heaters and the bistro-like indoor bar's crimson banquettes make for similarly comfortable all-season lounging.
    • 88 Ninth Ave., Maritime Hotel, at 17th St., 212-243-8400
     
     
     
     
   
Published August 19, 2004
     
 
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