The Suit Makers
“We’ll do custom linings, pocket squares, and tuxedo shirts for groomsmen or all the men in a family so they’re color-coordinated with the wedding.”
Jake Mueser and Amber Doyle, owners Doyle + Mueser
Are guys finicky about their wedding attire?
Mueser: Some come in with absolutely no idea of what they want, and others have a perfect image. To help them get there, we’ll ask them where the wedding is, what season it will take place in, if it’s in the city or countryside. We also try to think about how this tuxedo or suit might be used afterward.
Doyle: Men also want suits that they can wear for other occasions. It should be dressy enough for them to get married in, but versatile enough to wear for business or another party in the future.
Is there a specific style that satisfies all that?
Doyle: We often recommend a three-piece suit. It can very easily be dressed up or down by wearing it with or without the vest.
What do you think about patterns for the big day?
Mueser: It depends on the wedding and the individual. We did a wedding recently that had a Gatsby theme, and we created these really wild plaid suits. But that was very specific to the event.
So if it’s not event appropriate, you’ll steer guys back on track?
Mueser: We did this very elaborate Victorian-slash-Edwardian look for this goth-pop singer. We can’t tell him that’s not what he wants, because that’s exactly what he wants. But if a guy is on the fence, and I get the feeling that he may not be happy, say, with a pattern, I’ll tell him that a whole suit in that pattern may be a lot of look. It doesn’t mean I’m against it—I just want him to know that it’s a very bold pattern.
Does the fiancée usually tag along on fittings?
Mueser: She winds up coming roughly half the time. Usually if the guy is a sharp dresser, she isn’t too worried.
Doyle: We’ve had a few very particular and somewhat agitated brides. Choosing the suit is often the groom’s only solo decision, but sometimes she’ll want to take it over.
What do guys pick out when left to their own devices?
Mueser: The James Bond suit from Casino Royale. I’m all for it because it’s slick and tailored.
Doyle: Tuxedos—in everything from classic black to wild colors.
What is your advice to those who think they’ve got it all figured out, sartorially?
Mueser: Do something fun, like brightly colored suspenders or a neat lining. It’s fun, but it won’t scare the family.
From the Winter 2013 New York Wedding Guide