Bora-Bora

The ultimate bliss-out destination for beach lovers.

• By Tara Mandy
• Published Summer 2006

By virtue of its far-flung nature and exotic-sounding name, Bora-Bora comes with automatic bragging rights. It's as far west as Maui and as far south as Lima. The second-oldest spot in French Polynesia, this volcanic island is ringed by a coral reef that forms a huge lagoon of crystalline water; the Caribbean is murky by comparison. This is a relax-at-your-resort destination; if you get antsy easily, it's not for you. For everyone else, pack a War and Peace-length tome and some swimsuits, and you'll be all set.

FASTEST WAY TO GET THERE:

While geographical terms like "French Polynesia" and "the South Seas" make the island sound dauntingly far, Air Tahiti Nui's new thirteen-hour nonstop flight from JFK to Tahiti has made Bora-Bora extremely accessible. Arrival times are odd (usually in the wee hours of the morning), so you'll likely have to spend one night in Papeete. Try the Sheraton Hotel Tahiti, perfect for a four-hour power nap, shower, and breakfast before heading back to the airport for the 45-minute hop to Bora-Bora.

TOP RESORTS:

When the new St. Regis Resort, Bora-Bora opens in April, it will be the crown jewel of the region. But with rooms starting at about $1,000 a night, you may want to sample the hotel in smaller doses-say, an outdoor couples' massage or dinner at what will be the area's first sushi restaurant. Instead, book an overwater bungalow at the neighboring Le Méridien Bora-Bora. Your hut-on-stilts will have a glass floor through which you can watch all manner of tropical fish; a spiral staircase from your private terrace allows you to slip into the bathwater-warm lagoon whenever you wish. All the bungalows are the same (no suites here), so those deemed "premium" reflect only a superior location (i.e., more privacy and better views of Otemanu mountain).

DON'T-MISS WATER ACTIVITY:

Le Méridien seems like a high-end aquatic playground, with snorkeling, kayaking, Jet Skiing, and parasailing. You can also take a sunset cruise on a catamaran, swim with sea turtles, or sail a Hobie Cat. But the best way to splash around is to go for a gondola-like ride in a traditional Polynesian dugout canoe.

BEST BETS FOR PRIVACY SEEKERS:

Steal some solitude at the rugged entrance to the Pacific Ocean or in a shaded hammock on the palm-fringed stretch of beach that bisects the lagoon.

BEST ALTERNATIVE TO A DAY AT THE BEACH:

Arrange a private sportfishing sail aboard the 50-foot Taravana. Captain Richard Postma knows all the best spots. A full-day excursion to Tupai includes snorkeling at a reef that could easily have been the setting for Finding Nemo.

SUREST WAY TO AVOID GETTING RIPPED OFF:

Take the hotel's free boat shuttle to the main island for pearl hunting. The winding roads are dotted with almost as many black-pearl traders as fuchsia hibiscus trees. But consider paying a little more for a pearl from reputable dealer Nyco's, located in the main town of Viatape. They'll customize any piece of jewelry and offer free transportation from the dock, to boot.

BEST MEAL:

Be forewarned: Despite its obvious supply of fresh fruits de mer, Bora-Bora's culinary reputation is deservedly poor. The locals have one secret: La Villa Mahana. The seven-table restaurant books two months in advance.

BRING YOUR OWN ENTERTAINMENT:

Your nightlife will more likely involve watching DVDs in your sexy room (vaulted thatched ceilings, beds draped in romantic netting). The hotel's movie library is a bit perplexing, though, so you might want to bring your own.

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When to go
November to April is French Polynesia's summer (read rainy season). Winter (late June to early September) is marked by frequently gray skies. So try to go during spring (late September to late October) or fall (late March to early June).

Details
Air Tahiti Nui (866-835-9286) Delta Air Lines (800-323-2323) St. Regis (877-787-3447) Le Méridien (800-543-4300) Taravana, represented by the booking company Tahiti Legends (800-200-1213; taravana.com) Nyco's (689-60-58-20) La Villa Mahana (689-67-50-63).

What to pack
Bora-Bora is less fashionable than you might think. Even at dinner, the dress tends to be very casual: Stick to simple sundresses and flip- flops. Most beaches offer very little shade, so bring a wide-brimmed hat to protect yourself.